How-To: Install a 2005+ Roush Short Throw Shifter


Install a 2005+ Roush Short Throw Shifter

Write up and photos by Jim Fisher a.k.a. Jasf316

It took me around 45-60 minutes to do this install. I had a few snags wile doing this install and did my best to note them so other don’t make the same mistakes I did. Enjoy.

1.The first thing that I did was remove the shifter. It was on pretty tight and in order for me not to mar it I used a rubber strap wrench to remove it. Be careful though if you have the one with the grip they are just o-rings so you will have to grab it at the base.
2.The next thing was to remove the shifter limiting collar and the inner boot.
3.Now with the collar and the inner boot off I moved underneath the car. (It helps to note that being in the Army it does have its small perks one of them having access to the use of a HEATED shop with a drive on four post lift that can be used for a small fee.)
4. The next thing I did underneath was remove the nut from the bottom of the tower that connects to the linkage. (13mm socket) (another note here is to go ahead and remove the other nut that connects to the transmission and remove the linkage completely. Just make sure that it is in neutral and watch out for the 2 o-rings in the shift linkage that connects to the transmission. This will aid you later when trying to get the factory shifter out.)
5. A is the other linkage nut (13mm socket) that needs to be removed. After it is removed just pop it off making sure you do not damage the 2 o-rings. B is the next bolt that gets removed (10mm wrench). It is the front bracket bolt for the factory shifter. Don’t let the looks fool you its actually quite a large bolt.
6. Here is a picture of the bolt.
7. Here is what the bottom of the shifter looks like after the linkage has been removed.
8. Here is a picture of the front of the factory shifter after the bolt has been removed. (Note the collar on the metal bushing. Ensure that you reinstall it the correct way or you will be taking it down again like I had to in order to flip it around.)
9. The next thing is to remove the rear bracket nuts. (10mm Deep socket) There are two of them. I didn’t get a picture of it during the take down but on the other side there is a clip that holds the bracket up in place. After these two nuts are removed go ahead and wiggle the bracket from in between the body and driveshaft.
10. Now remove you new shifter from the box and match it to your factory one. Note if you pay attention (not like what I did) you will see that the metal collar is not showing it is facing the work bench. You’ll want to remove the two white bushings from the base of the old shifter and insert them into the new one. Make sure you use lithium grease when you put the bushings into the shifter. It will help hold them in place as well as keep them lubed during use.
11. Next remove the collar from the old bushing. I had to tap mine with a small hammer and a punch to knock it loose from the bushing. Then lube it (I licked mine, I know I’m nasty) and install it on the new Roush shifter.
12. Now your ready to install the shifter above the drive shaft. Make sure that the longer end where the white bushings are facing towards the left (drivers0 side of the car and the grooves where the shift tower is in the passenger compartment are facing toward the right (passengers) side of the car. (Also note that the metal collar is not in correctly) Install the 10mm bolt with some loc-tite 242 (blue) and run it in but don’t tighten it. You will also install the shifter linkage to the bottom of the shifter and the transmission (13mm). Make sure that you use plenty of lithium grease on the o-rings so that they will not get hung and get damaged when installing the shift rod.
13. Next take the bushing hoop and install it around the new bushing. Also insert the clip on to the left side and slide the bushing until it lines up with the studs and run the nuts (10mm deep socket) until they are snug.
14. Here is what it looks like inside the passenger compartment. Note the ridges facing towards the right side of the car.
15. Next take the shifter and line up the ridges and install the bolts and washers. I put just a dap of 242 loc-tite on them to make sure that they say in.
16. Here they are tightened.
17. Next run through all the gears to make sure that they fully engage. Right now is when you finally see how SLOPPY the factory shifter is. You can almost do this with just flicking your wrist. After making sure you have engagement on all the gears install the inner shifter boot making sure that the arrow face directly towards the front and back.
18. next insert the shift knob stop collar and run your shifter down and snug it up. You need to do this to make sure that it will align properly. I had to tighten the collar slightly with a crescent wrench to make sure that the shifter knob was correctly aligned.
19. Finally install the outer boot and the shifter knob. I snugged mine up with a rubber strap wrench so I wouldn’t mar the finish. Then your done. Up next the FNSWEET Test Drive.
I know that there will be some questions about the install. The test drive went well and it was almost like driving a different vehicle. I did notice a slight increase in the noise level but nothing that annoyed me. There is a mod for this where you install a foam ring. If the noise gets to annoying then I will do it and update this write-up. If you have any questions you can PM me Jasf316

Contribute your How-To Article!

About the author

FnSweet

Staff posted articles include excerpts or entire content from official company press releases, company statements and other news content which comes to us from various sources.

Related Posts
How-To: 1999-2004 Roush Front Fascia Installation
Written by Audie Cleaveland (folome) Roush Front Fascia Installation for 1999+ Mustangs The majority of the information ...
READ MORE
How-To: Install Alcon-Roush Brakes on 1994-2004 Mustang
Install: Alcon-Roush Brakes on 1994-2004 Mustang By wayyy2fassst Over the past 40+ years, the ...
READ MORE
How-To: ROUSHCharger 2.8″ Pulley Change
This article originally written for first generation ROUSHCharged cars 2001-2004, but installation for 2005+ ROUSHChargers is similar. Why ...
READ MORE
How-To: Roush Cold Air Induction Install For 2001-2004 ROUSHCharger
A cold air induction (CAI) setup is designed to remove the restrictive stock air ...
READ MORE
How-To: Soft Tonneau and Windguard Install For 1999-2004 Mustang
Here are the steps I took to install the soft tonneau and Windguard on my '01 Mustang convertible. ...
READ MORE
How-To: Roush Short-Throw Shifter Install 2001-2004 Mustang
This article shows an install for a Roush shifter in a 2001 Mustang with the ...
READ MORE
Tech Pictures: Stage 3 Exhaust Replacement
I decided early on that my Stock Stage 3 was far too quiet. Instead of ...
READ MORE
Tech Pictures: FMS Shorty Header Install Roush 2001 Stage 3 Mustang
This was an installation we did with Steve on his '01 Stage 3. We installed ...
READ MORE
How-To: Gauge Pod Install For 1999-2004 Mustang
This is the procedure I used to install a dual-gauge A-pillar pod with Autometer boost and fuel pressure gauges on my 2001 convertible Mustang. I am certain that there are ...
READ MORE
New Abaco Performance DBX Mass Air Meters
Abaco Performance has been offering their popular tunable mass air meters for some times, a perfect addition to other mods and a custom tune. Keeping the fires burning, Abaco Performance has ...
READ MORE
How-To: 1999-2004 Roush Front Fascia Installation
How-To: Install Alcon-Roush Brakes on 1994-2004 Mustang
How-To: ROUSHCharger 2.8″ Pulley Change
How-To: Roush Cold Air Induction Install For 2001-2004
How-To: Soft Tonneau and Windguard Install For 1999-2004
How-To: Roush Short-Throw Shifter Install 2001-2004 Mustang
Tech Pictures: Stage 3 Exhaust Replacement
Tech Pictures: FMS Shorty Header Install Roush 2001
How-To: Gauge Pod Install For 1999-2004 Mustang
New Abaco Performance DBX Mass Air Meters