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I just got done last weekend installing my Carbon Fiber Autometer gauges.
I installed the sender in the plug in the intake manifold. It seems to be working just fine so far. I am about 3 days into havin it up and running. I am averaging about 210* here in the Vegas heat. The plug is pretty thick but it wasn't to hard to drill through. I had to buy a new set of drill bits and the right tap but it wasn't to bad. I also bought a uni-bit and opened up the bottom end of the plug to make sure the water would get to the sender better. The plug is longer then the sender is. PM me if you want more info. Glad to help. I wish someone would have been able to help me. Also check out my thread on Roushcharger boost. I have pics there of the gauges on the dash. Here is a pic of the sender installed and wired.
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I looked at your setup. Looks good. I'm useing mechanical gauges and the fitting for the water temp is a 1/2 npt. I need to do a little checking to make sure there is going to be enough of the plug left without geeting into the thread area. I'm also looking at a Autometer hose adapter setup. I think that might be the way to go.
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No problem. Glad I could help. |
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You're a brave man. I stayed away from the mechanical guages for my water temp and oil pressure. I didn't want hot oil or hot antifreeze spewing into my face while I was driving the car.
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2006 Honda Pilot EX |
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The water Temp is a Temp Probe with a sensor that is in the coolant. No water is comes inside the car. The Oil Gauge is the only concern. I have used them for years on other vehicles and never had a problem. Oil Pressure is a main concern for any engine and mechanical (good mechanical gauges) will give the correct info on your motor.
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I did some aking around before I got my gauges and i decided that electric Oil and water was the better choice. I didn't want the water and oil in the car either, especially on the dash over the stereo and heating and all. I was told many times that the newer electrical gauges are really accurate.
I really don't think that the 1/2 will fit in the plug either, but you may be able to replace the plug. The inline adapter thing sounds like a viable option to me. I was thinking about seperating the water adapter on the driver's side that splits the water to by the oil filter, and the intake. It is two peices and i figured a shop could make a billet peice to be drilled and tapped for the sender. I still may do this becuase I don't like seeing the sender right by my S/C.
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Last edited by 06Roush_st_3 : 08-11-2006 at 01:33 PM. |
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I ordered the inline adapter from a speed shop today. It was $29.00 w/shipping. It will mount in the upper radiator hose with no problem. That question came up about the oil sender port. Is that metric or is it 1/4 npt? It looks to be atapered thread like a normal pipe thread. Here is a link to their site with the adapter
www.autometer.com/cat_accessories.aspx |
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The Autometer electric sender is 1/8 npt, if you have the mechanical then I am not sure. The Ford oil sender is a 1/4npt looks like a flange but is in between a 3/8 and 1/4 flange size. I don't think you will find the fitting with a 1/4 npt but you might be able to adapt it up.
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Last edited by 06Roush_st_3 : 08-11-2006 at 01:32 PM. |
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Important update:
I have discovered today that I am an idiot. My previous posts on the oil pressure switch ARE NOT CORRECT. The fittings are a 1/4 pipe thread. I was thrown off by the design of the factory fitting, and so was two other shops. I went into a third place today at lunch to get a metric fitting that Autometer said it was, NOPE. I hope that this is correct this time. I alrady spent $16.57 on the #6 fitting that I thought it was off Ebay. discovered last night that was wrong. I will post up pictures later tonight when I put it all together. previous posts have been edited out for content,and correct info... I hope this didn't screw anyone up, but I was spent several hours, and gas, and $$$ to find out how easy it should have been.
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I tried to install the T and the fittings tonight but the T and the factory sender are too long to fit. The motor mount is in the way.
I am trying to find out if I can just use the Autometer sender, and hook the factory wire to the sender. I have asked on another website on which it was stated that the factory sender just sees about 10psi and then switchs on. I am hoping that the Autometer sender will give off the needed Ohm reading and elliminate the need for the factory sender, and the T.
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