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check your fuel pressure regulator too, its the black sensor on the front of the driverside fuel rail. Look at the vacuum line going to it and trace it to make sure it didnt split or come loose. Also chekc the wiring to it.
You didnt happen to throw any engine codes did you? you may also want to try disconnecting and reconnecting the fuel pump driver module in the trunk, spare tire well, mounted on the well wall. call me if you need any help...732-780-0770 JimIII
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I sell weapons to the enemy! ![]()
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Had the scan tool from a ford dealership. No fuel pressure. Checked the power to the fuel pump under the seat and had power to the pump. Getting a new pump tommorow to try out tommorow. Brother inlaw is atech at a ford dealership so I have access to all the equipment. We went to the ford site on web the techs use for all the info to diagnos ,repair etc and we checked the wiring diagrams to see what color was power to the pump to make sure we had the right one.
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Tps was ok could hear it and see it working on the scan tool. The laptop he had with something that converte the info from the car into the laptop was the most awesome thing I've ever seen work. Id like to buy one of these for myself..
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One reason I like the Aeroforce gauges is you can see the fuel pressure and the engine codes. It's like having a PC connected to the OBD port. I had my Roush at Ford Dealer yesterday getting my MGW shifter put in. All the techs were looking at the Aeroforce gauges and said it they were informative gauges they had seen.
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'07 Roush Sport Whipple Super Charger, MGW shifter, Roush O/R and Aeroforce gauges. |
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I had a problem years ago with a Colt Turbo.
Would run fine, then hesitate and stall. Let it cool and run fine for a bit. Pump checked out fine, so replaced fuel filter. Ran a day and stopped again. Found out plastic cone shaped fuel filter IN the intake to the pump was dirty. Cleaned it and no more problems. |
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I had the exact same thing happen to my car, first time the dealership changed the fuel pump, stranded me on I-95 later that night doing the same thing. They then changed the fuel pump driver module as JimIII suggested.
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Black 2007 GT 5 speed - Roush Parts - 445 hp Roushcharger, suspension, O/R exhaust, short throw shifter, 427R wheels, Billet LCA Other parts - Nitto Invo 275/40R/18, Powerslot Rotors, Hawk HPS pads, CDC black grille. For Sale: Roush CAI w/ 5k miles on it, stock GT grille w/ foglights, GT suspension and mufflers. PM if interested. |
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I think that the service dept. said that the a bad pump driver caused the pump itself to overheat. I don't really like the thought of an in-tank fuel pump overheating, even thought its probably over the UEL in there. Don't know if that was their way of trying to make it look like it wasn't their fault I had to bring it back though.
It might be worth asking how much both parts are, if they aren't too bad then it may be worth it to save the aggravation of going back if the problem isn't solved the first time. My work was done under warranty.
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Black 2007 GT 5 speed - Roush Parts - 445 hp Roushcharger, suspension, O/R exhaust, short throw shifter, 427R wheels, Billet LCA Other parts - Nitto Invo 275/40R/18, Powerslot Rotors, Hawk HPS pads, CDC black grille. For Sale: Roush CAI w/ 5k miles on it, stock GT grille w/ foglights, GT suspension and mufflers. PM if interested. |
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Quote:
The dual pumps are a pricey item considering your power level. Unless you plan on going "big-time" with your engine mods, you might want to consider a cheaper alternative by adding a Kenne-bell boost-a-pump. The price is around 1/3 of the dual pump and would give you plenty of fuel flow and pressure.
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Speed limits are merely a suggestion. Mods: Carmen's ( Me ) Custom Billet Aluminum Pulley Set with 2.57" Supercharger Pulley, Steeda Cold Air Intake, Steeda Heat Exchanger, CDC Sequential Taillights, SCT Tuner, Katzkin Custom Leather Seats, Roush strut brace. Custom tune: 420 rwhp 382 rwt |
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