Shaker 500 Upgrade: Adding 1000 subs/amps

[DiMora]

Send a pm to 06Roush_S3 I am pretty sure he had the same issure and got fixed with some simple parts from Radioshack.
BTW A new sound system and now a Roushcharger all at the same time you're going to have a whole new car soon. But how will you decide which to listen to. The tunes or the whine!

I can't wait to listen to both!

I fixed the pop:

A 5 Volt Fixed Voltage Regulator (Radio Shack #276-1770) did the trick. You carefully solder and heat shrink three wires onto the little beastie - there is a diagram on the back of the package. You have +12volt power and ground, and the third pin is 5 volt output. Solder and heat-shirink all connections, but the lowdown is the regulator's ground hooks up to the head unit's black ground wire and then you solder the Blue/White (or blue on some stereos) amp/accessory turn on wire that comes out of the headunit onto the regulator's 12V input, then solder the 5V output wire to your aftermarket adapter amp turn on wires (blue/white).

I also discovered that the Metra adapter harness with RCA plugs combines the shaker 1000 sub amp turn on wire and the front door woofer turn on wire. I thought I was going to need two regulators (one for front amps and one for sub trunk amps) but one did the trick. I'll post pics later.

[Droptop306]

Hey Guys I was wondering if the Metra 70-5521 was the only adaptor I need to install a aftermarket pioneer avic into my o8 mustang. Also Dimora, how did you hook up to the amps for the 1000 shaker box and amp rack. I am going to do the same as you did but wanted to make sure that I have the right parts. I can be emailed at droptop306@hotmail.com if you dont mind. thanks alot. I look forward to posting alot with you all.

[DiMora]

Hey Guys I was wondering if the Metra 70-5521 was the only adaptor I need to install a aftermarket pioneer avic into my o8 mustang. Also Dimora, how did you hook up to the amps for the 1000 shaker box and amp rack. I am going to do the same as you did but wanted to make sure that I have the right parts. I can be emailed at droptop306@hotmail.com if you dont mind. thanks alot. I look forward to posting alot with you all.

I used wiring diagrams to figure out which colors go to what...and then I simply added wire extensions to the shaker 100 amps and wired them into the factory harness.

All the wire colors are in this thread.

[Droptop306]

why did you run rca cables when no hook ups an why telephone wires. I am so confused on this. Do i have to remove pins to add to the harness?

[DiMora]

Telephone wires?

I'm confused now too .

In simple terms, I attached long wires that I had laying around to the subwoofer amplifiers for the audio signal. They happened to be trailer hookup wires (stranded copper). I put one end of them into a vice and the other into the chuck of my drill and made them twisted wires for noise rejection. You attach these wires to the sub outputs on your new headunit. The adapters allow you to plug your headunit into the factory harness in order to retain the shaker 500 door amps, switched power, etc. without doing Edward Scissorhands on your factory harness.

Some of the wires coming off your head-unit are connected to the sub amp signal wires you have run - all the diagrams you need are in this thread.

I also ran dedicated power (4 gauge direct to the car battery with a fuse), ground, and an "accessory turn on " wire from the head unit to the shaker sub amps.

I don't know how much you know about car audio...but amps (both factory and aftermarket) always require power, ground and turn on wires for power, and RCA cables or equivalent for signal. There are NO RCA PLUGS on the factory shaker 1000 sub (trunk) amps, so you have to tap into the appropriate wires coming out of the amps to make those connections using solder and heatshrink instead of RCA plugs.

Read this thread carefully and post up additional questions and I'll try to help.

[Droptop306]

OK. I got the telephone wire wording now. I just went out and looked at what I have. Starting from the trunk. I would assume that I could just take the two plugs from the subwoofer and plug them into the amp rack din plugs and that is all for them. I would then cut the power harness off and make my run of the wires to the front from this to be as following:

* 4 gauge power wire to the purple/blue wire
Ground to the black and orange wire
* remote turn on to the grey/black wire
* + feed from pink/light green
* - feed from orange/red
Do I have that correct at least?

Now those 4 wires would run to the radio harnesses. This is where I am confused. I looked at the J4 plug and i only have 1-4 being used and 5-8 empty. What do I hook the orange/red and pink/ light green and the remote to. I think the remote will goto the blue and white wire from the metra adapter correct. Power of course goes to the battery and gets fused. The ground gets grounded. If I have the rear right could you help me with the front. I really want this to work. I also bought the resistor as well today from radio shack. I just dont want to mess anything up. I only have 1800 miles on it. I have done many aftermarket stereos and have had no problems but when you start talking wiring diagrams, I can not read them for the life of me. That is why I like the plug and Play harness that metra and others make. Thanks for all the help and sorry for sounding like a pest or a bother.

[thegabrielles]

I may turn into a pest or a bother before this is over... problem is I am close to DiMora.... I may end up in his driveway one day with a case of beer and a crapload of wires saying "now what color goes where?" Good luck with the install... I know there has got to be more stereo in my future, but I have to decide what is more important.... hmmmmm

Does not seem so long ago when wiring a stereo was easy.

[Droptop306]

I think that i got it now Emillio helped me out. I had it misunderstood. The pins that I need to run wires from j4 5,6,8 positions. The metra harness has these pins. I just need to find the adaptors (female ends) to slide into the factory harness and run the wires back to the amps. I am waiting from DiMora to get back to me to make sure that i have the rear at least correct. It is amazing that one set of rca cables from the metra adaptor can run 6 amps.

[DiMora]

OK. I got the telephone wire wording now. I just went out and looked at what I have. Starting from the trunk. I would assume that I could just take the two plugs from the subwoofer and plug them into the amp rack din plugs and that is all for them. I would then cut the power harness off and make my run of the wires to the front from this to be as following:

* 4 gauge power wire to the purple/blue wire
Ground to the black and orange wire
* remote turn on to the grey/black wire
* + feed from pink/light green
* - feed from orange/red
Do I have that correct at least?

Now those 4 wires would run to the radio harnesses. This is where I am confused. I looked at the J4 plug and i only have 1-4 being used and 5-8 empty. What do I hook the orange/red and pink/ light green and the remote to. I think the remote will goto the blue and white wire from the metra adapter correct. Power of course goes to the battery and gets fused. The ground gets grounded. If I have the rear right could you help me with the front. I really want this to work. I also bought the resistor as well today from radio shack. I just dont want to mess anything up. I only have 1800 miles on it. I have done many aftermarket stereos and have had no problems but when you start talking wiring diagrams, I can not read them for the life of me. That is why I like the plug and Play harness that metra and others make. Thanks for all the help and sorry for sounding like a pest or a bother.

You are close!

You need to run +12 volt power to power the trunk amps. Use a wire run straight to the battery through the firewall. Fuse it. I would use a 60 AMP fuse. The factory used two 30 amp fuses!

TRUNK CONNECTIONS:

POWER CONNECTIONS ON THE TRUNK SUB AMPS:

VT/LB (+) for subwoofer connector C4158A and C4160A)
PK/YE (+) for subwoofer connector C4157A and C4159A)

GROUNDS:

BK/OG (-) - I ran my ground all the way up front and grounded it to the passenger side front underhood area where there are already grounds coming out of the fusebox. You can ground in the trunk and use the car's chassis for ground, but you might get noise (ground loop).

TURN-ON

Rear sub amp turn on and clipping signal (GY/BK)


AUDIO SIGNAL CONNECTIONS ON TRUNK SUB AMPS:

Rear Sub (+) (PK/LG) Pin 7 on connectors C4157a, C4158a, C4159a, and C4160a: (+) The Audio input that feeds these wires from matching head-unit wire: PK/LG

Rear Sub (-) (OG/RD) Pin 8 on connectors C4157a, C4158a, C4159a, and C4160a: (-) The Audio input that feeds these wires from matching head-unit wire: OG/RD

HEAD UNIT CONNECTIONS

3 wires required. They come from the "J4" connector (Also known as "Audio Unit C290B") outputs. We are using pins 5,6,and 8 on the only 8 pin connector coming off the head-unit.



AUDIO SIGNAL WIRES

Pin 5 is Rear Sub (+) it is PK/OG
Pin 6 is Rear Sub (-) it is OG/RD

TURN ON SIGNAL WIRE

Pin 8 is Rear Sub turn on and clipping feedback circuit - it is GY/BK

______________________


OK, now the trick is that you need wires coming off pins 5,6,and 8 on the head unit "J4" connector (Also known as "Audio Unit C290B") outputs. That is where you are missing some pins!

Emilio and I both stole the pins off the unused connector that *would* be there if we had the trip computer. Neither of us had that option so we harvested the pins on that unused plug. If you have the trip computer option, you may have to go to a junkyard to get the connectors, or order a connector from Ford.

That's the best I can explain!

[Droptop306]

I got it now. I will try and cut the trip harness tomorrow and start running wires. Did you cut the factory din off for the connections at the amps and just plug the subwoofer into the dins on the amp rack. One last question the rca cables off of the metra harness did you plug them into the sub output of the rca's Thanks alot for everything.

[DiMora]

I got it now. I will try and cut the trip harness tomorrow and start running wires. Did you cut the factory din off for the connections at the amps and just plug the subwoofer into the dins on the amp rack. One last question the rca cables off of the metra harness did you plug them into the sub output of the rca's Thanks alot for everything.

I pulled the pins our of the plugs and soldered my wires to the base of the pins - in case I take it out and re-sell it to someone I can put it back and they can still use the OEM plugs...I didn't want to cut anything on the subwoofer end of things.

My subs are plugged into the sub amps using the stock connectors.

The Metra RCA harness simply allows you to plug the head units subwoofer output RCA plugs into the matching metra RCA female adapter RCA plugs. The other end of the Metra RCA adapter goes into the factory plug. That is where your harvested pins go...on the car harness side of the factory "J4" 8 pin plug...use the above diagram and colors I posted to hook up correctly.

[BlkStang08]

So I ran across something really weird while installing the shaker 1000 system...

I have an '08 mustang gt, and it seems it's a little different than yours. Basically, my J4 connector already has wires coming out for pins 5 (PK/LG), 6 (OG/RD), and 8 (GY/BK). However, these don't make it to the trunk. I was trying to figure out where they go, but it's really hard to tell (most of the wiring is taped up or has sheathing on it).

Does anyone have any ideas? I thought maybe they ran the wires anyway, but that doesn't seem so. Also, my fuse box has the two fuses for the subwoofers, but those wires don't seem to make it to the trunk either. I'm clueless but hopefully I'll figure it out tomorrow. Thanks.

Patrick

[BlkStang08]

In case anyone cares, here's an update. I couldn't figure out where the J4 wires went because they were twisted and covered with electrical tape. They stopped somewhere between the J4 connector and the main connector hidden under the passenger side kick panel. Anyway, I cut these and ran my own wires according to DiMora's info.

To make a long story short, I got it all installed and it sounds great. I was missing that extra bass and now I have it! I'll be making a manual with pictures and information later on this week.

DiMora, do I have your permission to use some of the information you provided here in the manual? Thanks.

Patrick

[DiMora]

In case anyone cares, here's an update. I couldn't figure out where the J4 wires went because they were twisted and covered with electrical tape. They stopped somewhere between the J4 connector and the main connector hidden under the passenger side kick panel. Anyway, I cut these and ran my own wires according to DiMora's info.

To make a long story short, I got it all installed and it sounds great. I was missing that extra bass and now I have it! I'll be making a manual with pictures and information later on this week.

DiMora, do I have your permission to use some of the information you provided here in the manual? Thanks.

Patrick

Sure do...I don't mind at all. I posted all this to help others, because when I did it I searched for days and couldn't find anything. Also, keep in mind Shaker 500 equipped cars do not normally have any pins, fuses, or wires, but each car is unique. I have read on other forums where in early Shaker 500 equipped 'Stangs, they actually DID run the Shaker 1000 harness, and I've also heard of where guys have a partial harness that terminates about half way back. I had neither in my Shaker 500 equipped car (2006).

[Droptop306]

Dimora,
I want to personally thank you for all the great information. I have an 08 Gt and my J4 did not have the pins installed. I however used your directions to wired the Pioneer Avic D3 and shaker 1000 amps and subs. Works like a charm. I however get that pop once in a while. Not all the time. I went through everything even changed the resistor thinking it was bad and did a extra ground on everything. I can live with it though once in a while. I have also created a direction set for another forum and wanted to get your permission to post it. Thanks again. It is great to know that there are people out there that are willing to share there knowledge in order to save others alot of time and money.

[Droptop306]

By the way if you dont want to cut your harness for the pins Metra sells a OEM wiring harness for the 05-08 mustangs for 28.00. That is what I purchased and used the pins from that kit to keep the integrity of the vehicle.

[citori40]

Thanks for all the info already in this thread. I'm planning on diving into my Shaker 500 upgrade project this weekend. Here's what I'm planning to do:

1. Install Shaker 1000 subs and amps. Purchased on e-bay.

Question - Is the wiring present to the trunk for this?Oh, I'm installing in a 2009 Shelby GT 500. (I was hoping my Roush brothers wouldn't mind helping me out.)

Question - What other speakers are installed with the 1000 compared to the 500? The package I bought on e-bay came with all 1000 system speakers and amps.

2. Install a new Eclipse AVN-6620 head unit to drive the system This was purchased from Crutchfield.

Question - Any tips on this install? I also have the 8 disc changer to install in the trunk, Sirius tuner module, and bluetooth module.

3. Anything else I should be prepared for before I start?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Don

[DiMora]

Thanks for all the info already in this thread. I'm planning on diving into my Shaker 500 upgrade project this weekend. Here's what I'm planning to do:

1. Install Shaker 1000 subs and amps. Purchased on e-bay.

Question - Is the wiring present to the trunk for this?Oh, I'm installing in a 2009 Shelby GT 500. (I was hoping my Roush brothers wouldn't mind helping me out.)

Question - What other speakers are installed with the 1000 compared to the 500? The package I bought on e-bay came with all 1000 system speakers and amps.

2. Install a new Eclipse AVN-6620 head unit to drive the system This was purchased from Crutchfield.

Question - Any tips on this install? I also have the 8 disc changer to install in the trunk, Sirius tuner module, and bluetooth module.

3. Anything else I should be prepared for before I start?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Don

Tips: Read this thread in its entirety...that will get you pointed in the right direction.

I doubt the wiring is there in your car.

Shaker 1000 system has 4 amps in the trunk (two for each subwoofer), and two smaller amps up front (look above the fuel cutoff reset switch above the driver's side kick-panel and in the same location on the passenger side)...if you have a Shaker 500 in there you already have those amps. Those drive the door mounted 8" woofers. The four smaller door speakers and also the rear padckage shelf speakers are all driven with power from the head unit.

So the answer to your question is you have 6 individual speakers (door small speakers are coaxial with a separate mid / tweet on one plate)...and 6 amplifiers, plus head unit power for 4 speakers.

Make sure you have an adapter to go from the OEM wiring to the new head unit - unless you want to cut into the OEM harness.

Lastly, there is a great spot in the center rear under the package shelf carpet to fit your Sirius antenna. That is where mine is. Works great - no need to put an external antenna on your car and drill holes or worry about routing. YOu don't even have to remove the shelf - there is a rectangular opening you can fish it through while in the trunk looking upward.

[citori40]

Ok. I think I got really lucky. I found that the factory wiring was there so I could plug in my E-bay purchased Shaker 1000 amp rack into the factory harness. I haven't pulled the Shaker 500 HU yet but I'm hoping I'll be able to plug my Metra adapter directly into the harness. So, if that's the case, here's what I'm left with.

All componets are Eclipse accessories plugging into an Eclipse AVN 6620 HU.

Cd Changer to be mounted in the trunk.
IPod interface
Sirius radio interface.
Bluetooth.

The componets all have daisy chain pass through capability. I was wondering if there was a particular order these should be installed or doesn't it matter? Since the CD changer is in the trunk, I was thinking of running that daisy chained into the IPod interface and then to the HU, leaving the Sirius unit by itself. I think I have the connections to do this or will I need to daisy chain the changer/Ipod combo to the Sirius and then to the HU. Wow, this is a lot more confusing than installing my first 8-trank system in the late 70's!!!!

Thanks for any input,
Don

[DiMora]

Ok. I think I got really lucky. I found that the factory wiring was there so I could plug in my E-bay purchased Shaker 1000 amp rack into the factory harness. I haven't pulled the Shaker 500 HU yet but I'm hoping I'll be able to plug my Metra adapter directly into the harness. So, if that's the case, here's what I'm left with.

All componets are Eclipse accessories plugging into an Eclipse AVN 6620 HU.

Cd Changer to be mounted in the trunk.
IPod interface
Sirius radio interface.
Bluetooth.

The componets all have daisy chain pass through capability. I was wondering if there was a particular order these should be installed or doesn't it matter? Since the CD changer is in the trunk, I was thinking of running that daisy chained into the IPod interface and then to the HU, leaving the Sirius unit by itself. I think I have the connections to do this or will I need to daisy chain the changer/Ipod combo to the Sirius and then to the HU. Wow, this is a lot more confusing than installing my first 8-trank system in the late 70's!!!!

Thanks for any input,
Don

Order on Eclipse daisy chain does not matter - that is what I run as well. I have I-pod and Sirius.