Looking to add power, cams are about all I can do until I roll forged...

[xkape]

I want to get cams to add some more HP. However, this is new ground for me. I am hoping the experts here can answer some things for me.

It is important to know, if I get cams, will they still work with a forged rotating assembly (or a B326, haven't decided) and a TVS?

With my current setup, which ones are best? I don't want to lose low end power, it's bad enough as it is. If there is something else I need to buy with the cams to not lose it, or improve it, what is it?

My setup now, as far as power goes is just a MAC LT and midpipe deal, no cats, roush off roads (would extremes help at all?), 1 piece DS, VMP500 kit and, of course, the M90. 3.73 gears

Thanks!

[BadPiggy]

I'd think the FRPP Throttle Body would do more for you than the FRPP Hot Rod cams.
Give Jim at JDM a call...I venture to say, he'd say the same thing.

[xkape]

I can call him and I shall. What about both together? I want my car louder too. So far im just not at a loudness I am agreeing with.

[808muscle]

I would also call Chandler at Brenspeed and ask them about their D rocker blower grind cams. If your thinking about a b326 in the future ( and who isnt...LOL) why not call and ask.

[snowpony]

xKape,
I ordered stage 4 kit and FRPP hotrod cams last week from JDM. should be here next week ,install to follow. Everyone claims that the Tune alone will wake up the 427R and From all I have read on this site it's a mattter of opinion on which cams are best for our cars. To each His own I just like the sound of the ford cam's. My goal is to have more HP and a cool sounding car. If were looking at HP per dollar its expensive. I talked to Jim, (JDM) and could get a few more ponies from TBody if more is wanted. I have'nt raced yet and dont know if I will . Just depends on what you want in the end. If it's good enough for Carmen!!! it should be okay for Me...... Ha Ha..

[redfire427]

The Hot-rod cams are a nice addition in the sense that you gain a bit of power on the top end, but you do lose a slight amount on the bottom. This can be corrected with a gear ratio change, however, it already appears you have 3.73 gears so you would be fine. With my cam install, I went from 421 rwhp to 443. Cams are an expensive upgrade as they are pricey on their own, you need specialty tools to install them, new cam phaser bolts, and an update to your tune. If you do the work yourself, like I did, the cost isn't too bad, but if you have to pay to have it done, in my opinion, it would not be worth it.

Carmen

[cmg427]

Sorry xcape same thing from before still applies. You should wait until your build since it seems you are pretty sure your doing one. I would think install would be cheaper for cams during a build as well then doing them alone. What about working on your suspension to keep the mod bug happy?

[xkape]

Not even sure where to begin on suspension..lol Been so focused on power I haven't looked into anything else much. What would I do to the suspension? I have stage 3 suspension and its all only got 25k miles on it. And yes, I am definately doing a build. I have no desire for a 10+ stang (model year) so I figure getting a forged crate motor actually saves me money over buying a new car.

[Pentalab]

Not even sure where to begin on suspension..lol Been so focused on power I haven't looked into anything else much. What would I do to the suspension? I have stage 3 suspension and its all only got 25k miles on it. And yes, I am definately doing a build. I have no desire for a 10+ stang (model year) so I figure getting a forged crate motor actually saves me money over buying a new car.

Can't tell from your sig, what you have right now for some of it. Do you have new UCA-LCA's and LCA relocate brackets. I had the BMR UCA mount + adjustable UCA installed, along with BMR LCA's + mating relocate brackets. Also installed were the BMR adjustable pan hard bar + mating pan hard brace. And then the BMR A arm brace. Steeda STB across the blower.... and also a steeda rear STB. Last week, it was the pair of steeda camber plates + steeda front sway bar mount braces. (12" long each, and each is 12.5 oz's.) Two days ago, on Friday, it was the DSS-DS, and also the BMR tunnel brace + DS safety loop and also the pair of Steeda sub frame connector's. This is all on top of the Roush suspension that went in last summer. By tossing the oem DS, we reduce weight, which gets partly negated by the sub frame connector's (8 lbs)...and also the 33" wide x .25" thick BMR tunnel brace (7.8 lbs). The 3rd point of each steeda triangular sub frame brace goes immediately into the tunnel brace. IE: sub frame connector on either side of car, with one side of each sub frame connector running parallel to outsides of car, with the tunnel brace between em. It's then one homegenous assy the entire width of the car. The sub frame connector's also bond the inner and outer frame rails together on each side ( 4 in total). The back end of each sub connector attaches to the front end of each LCA mount. The whole deal ends up being a win-win situation. Dunno why Ford "forgot" to tie the sub frames together. This latest stuff is all bolted in..but for max effect, I'm getting the local race car chassis fabricator's to tig weld it all as well....and anything else that looks mickey mouse.

As is, it corner's dead flat. From a 5-8 mph roll, it sticks like glue. The limitation now is the oem driver's seat + oem seatbelt. As long as no bumps on the corner's, the back end is fine. Bumpy corner's is still bad news. A watt's link would alleviate that, but this is just a street car, so will hold off on that for now.

Jimbo

[xkape]

OK I guess I could have given a little more info to help..lol

Steeda Chromoly LCA's, DynaTech 1 piece driveshaft w/ safety loop, front strut tower brace and this http://mustangs.about.com/od/accesso...3-suspensi.htm

[cmg427]

LCA Relocation brackets to start if you dont have them. Fays2 watts link. You can do both of those for less then the cams and IMO will make for funner drive time then cams