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Thread: Ordering AFCO, any installation hints before I press go? TVS2300

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    Ordering AFCO, any installation hints before I press go? TVS2300

    So, Ive watched the installation videos from Justin, but that is obviously for a GT500, and I think there are a few minor differences when using this on a GT/Roush? I believe the water pump is mounted in a different location, for example.

    So, any hints and/or required parts/hoses, etc. that I may need to be aware of before I start ripping into this thing?

    Currently, my IAT's are seeing 118-122* while crusing at 75mph on the hwy and about 140* after a couple/few strong runs. I'm going to order the HE by itself, rather than with fans..unless you guys see reason to get the fans. I assume I can get fans at a later date if I really see the need?

    These are the videos I watched:



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    skwerl's Avatar
    skwerl is online now no stripes, no spoilers, no chrome, oh my
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    I bought the one with fans. Afterwards my IATs are just about the same as your current IATs. The improvement was extremely minimal. Late model Roush heat exchangers are very good and I would put my stock one back on if it hadn't been stolen by some scumsucking fleabag out of my driveway while I was test driving the car after installing the Afco.

    And the fans are noisy as hell.
    -Brian

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    cmg427 is offline FnSweet Premium Forum Member
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    I wouldn't spend the money without getting the fans. From what I remember reading install is a bitch cause its real tight
    2010 Roush 427r- TVS Dual Belt with stock pulley about 500rwhp. Trak pak 6 piston brakes, trak pak suspension adjusted even lower, Roush billet LCA's with BMR's red lca brackets. Roush hood struts, Grant Roush steering wheel, Roush upper and lower billet grill VMP tuned

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    DEFINITELY get the fans.

    I could go off on a long diatribe here, but the airflow when moving slowly is key. You MUST prevent heat-soak as best you can.

    I have an AFCO WITHOUT the fans, and I am going to take it off and install one with fans very soon.


    Steeda Full Club Racer Stage 1 & 2 suspension / Tokico D-Specs / Roush shortened-short shifter / Mac LongTubes / Prochamber / Magnaflow cats / Roush Extreme Exhaust / Whiteine Watts Link / Roush TVS R2300 / Carmen's 3.47" TVS pulley - 492RWHP SAE@9 PSI / McLeod RST / HID's / Big Brakes

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    Quote Originally Posted by DiMora View Post
    DEFINITELY get the fans.

    I could go off on a long diatribe here, but the airflow when moving slowly is key. You MUST prevent heat-soak as best you can.

    I have an AFCO WITHOUT the fans, and I am going to take it off and install one with fans very soon.
    Is it a completely different setup with the fans, or are you going to use your existing fans? Also, I assume you could wire the fans into a switch? If I get the fans, I'd like to be able to turn them on at the track, otherwise leave them off.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ExpatMedic View Post
    Is it a completely different setup with the fans, or are you going to use your existing fans? Also, I assume you could wire the fans into a switch? If I get the fans, I'd like to be able to turn them on at the track, otherwise leave them off.
    The one that comes with fans is bigger by ~ 2.5 inches in height... (11 3/8 x 31 3/8 vs. 8 9/10 x 31 3/8 inches) You can easily wire in a switch to kill the fans.


    Steeda Full Club Racer Stage 1 & 2 suspension / Tokico D-Specs / Roush shortened-short shifter / Mac LongTubes / Prochamber / Magnaflow cats / Roush Extreme Exhaust / Whiteine Watts Link / Roush TVS R2300 / Carmen's 3.47" TVS pulley - 492RWHP SAE@9 PSI / McLeod RST / HID's / Big Brakes

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    Quote Originally Posted by DiMora View Post
    The one that comes with fans is bigger by ~ 2.5 inches in height... (11 3/8 x 31 3/8 vs. 8 9/10 x 31 3/8 inches) You can easily wire in a switch to kill the fans.
    Oh, no kidding. So there is actually more surface area with the fan model?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ExpatMedic View Post
    Oh, no kidding. So there is actually more surface area with the fan model?
    Yes - plus better airflow if you are sub 30 MPH with the fans...like idling at a light.


    Steeda Full Club Racer Stage 1 & 2 suspension / Tokico D-Specs / Roush shortened-short shifter / Mac LongTubes / Prochamber / Magnaflow cats / Roush Extreme Exhaust / Whiteine Watts Link / Roush TVS R2300 / Carmen's 3.47" TVS pulley - 492RWHP SAE@9 PSI / McLeod RST / HID's / Big Brakes

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    The intercooler system is only as good as its weakest link.

    Roush designed the system to work well for what it is.

    When you want more cooling and you start upgrading things, the system becomes limited by the weakest link.

    I have a giant Canton intercooler tank with over a gallon of fluid in it, and a Meziere 20 GPM pump. The intercooler itself in the TVS intake is obviously a fixed unit and not a variable. My Meziere pumps the coolant awesomely fast through my system, and my IAT's drop very rapidly as soon as I am moving, but when I am sitting in traffic, that big AFCO, since there is no airflow through it, simply does nothing, and my IAT's climb to 150 or so in the Atlanta heat. Once I move, I drop to 128-131...but if I stop again, up they go. Having the fans would be HUGE. I am talking 90-100 degree F outside and 80% plus humidity. Hotlanta.

    Some guys on S197 forum are running big pro-stock radiators for a heat exchanger - plus fans. You CANNOT make your heat exchanger too big, unless you run a killer chiller.


    Steeda Full Club Racer Stage 1 & 2 suspension / Tokico D-Specs / Roush shortened-short shifter / Mac LongTubes / Prochamber / Magnaflow cats / Roush Extreme Exhaust / Whiteine Watts Link / Roush TVS R2300 / Carmen's 3.47" TVS pulley - 492RWHP SAE@9 PSI / McLeod RST / HID's / Big Brakes

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    Good stuff. Thanks for the insight.

    Since we're on the topic of cooling, what is your thought on stats? My tuner recommended I go with a colder one, I believe what I currently have is a 195*? At least thats exactly what my engine temps hover at.

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    Modern engines wear (as in wear and tear on the engine)the most when they are cool. Ford has chosen the thermostat based on what is best for our engine. I see no advantage in going with a cooler thermostat at all in this car...it won't make any power that you will feel or be able to notice in the quarter mile.

    All a cooler T-Stat will do is cause the T-tat to open sooner, and therefore pump the coolant through the radiator 10 degrees or so sooner. Again, if there is no big performance gain, I wouldn't risk the wear and tear.

    A cooler engine T-Stat will NOT affect intake air temps much at all, which is what really matters.

    Your engine temp is interpolated by the ECM from a CHT gauge; there is not a probe in the coolant or anything.


    Steeda Full Club Racer Stage 1 & 2 suspension / Tokico D-Specs / Roush shortened-short shifter / Mac LongTubes / Prochamber / Magnaflow cats / Roush Extreme Exhaust / Whiteine Watts Link / Roush TVS R2300 / Carmen's 3.47" TVS pulley - 492RWHP SAE@9 PSI / McLeod RST / HID's / Big Brakes

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    Plus if the engine runs at a cooler temp, you can create a sludge making condition in motor with the oil

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    while u have the car under the knife with cooling mods, you may want to consider changing out factory radiator to a bigger size if you havent done so already. the guys at s197 posted brenspeed's killer deal on upgraded fluidyine radiator for dirt cheap. they have a few more kits left at 259 vs 400 cheapest ive ever seen and 550 normal price. going with this an meizere pump soon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GrabberGuy34 View Post
    Plus if the engine runs at a cooler temp, you can create a sludge making condition in motor with the oil
    Agree! Yet another reason to run at factory operating temp.

    If the car was a pure race car, there might be some merit in a lower T-Stat.

    I guess overall I feel that if the car is not having an high temp / overheating issues, then a cooler T-Stat is not needed. Some guys running 750,800, 900+ RWHP *can* tend to run hot, depending on cam selection and other mods, so they need bigger radiators and cooler T-Stats to mitigate the extra heat, but at Expat's power level (and most of our power levels) it is not needed and can do more harm than good.

    GrabberGuy, you are a great example...with 809 RWHP...is your cooling system (radiator and T-Stat) stock and if so, do you have any temp issues?


    Steeda Full Club Racer Stage 1 & 2 suspension / Tokico D-Specs / Roush shortened-short shifter / Mac LongTubes / Prochamber / Magnaflow cats / Roush Extreme Exhaust / Whiteine Watts Link / Roush TVS R2300 / Carmen's 3.47" TVS pulley - 492RWHP SAE@9 PSI / McLeod RST / HID's / Big Brakes

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    AutoXRacer's Avatar
    AutoXRacer is offline Displaced Human Space Flight Engineer
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    With my soon to be setup...and my new cams producing a little more heat than stock....I ordered up an AFCO aluminum radiator. According to JDM, the upgraded aluminum radiator will cancel the heating effects from the cams.

    I would also recommend not going with a cooler thermostat!! You will prematurely wear your engine!!! Ask me how I know...lol I did it in a Mazda Miata... sigh

    Anyway, I also recommend the dual fans...yes they are loud, but its a cool loud and I have mine setup on a switch. I only turn them on when I am in traffic or racing.
    ROUSH
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    595HP/572TQ (14-16 PSI) | 636HP/613TQ (15-18 PSI) | 91 octane


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    I have the model with no fans. Not a bad install. You don't have to take the front bumper off. Don't know about the one with the fans. And I got a cool sticker in the box.

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    I also have the AFCO without the fans, but I am upgrading the radiator and also the AFCO with the fans

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikes07427R View Post
    I also have the AFCO without the fans, but I am upgrading the radiator and also the AFCO with the fans
    Winning.




    Steeda Full Club Racer Stage 1 & 2 suspension / Tokico D-Specs / Roush shortened-short shifter / Mac LongTubes / Prochamber / Magnaflow cats / Roush Extreme Exhaust / Whiteine Watts Link / Roush TVS R2300 / Carmen's 3.47" TVS pulley - 492RWHP SAE@9 PSI / McLeod RST / HID's / Big Brakes

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