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Thread: Question For Those That Track Regularly

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    BadPiggy's Avatar
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    Question For Those That Track Regularly

    To those of you that track (road course) your cars regularly...
    What type of wheels are you running?
    Cast or Forged?

    I'm just trying to find out what rules there are to tracking.
    I'm about to buy new wheels and I don't want to buy 2 sets.
    I'm also trying to prevent spending the added cost for forged wheels.

    Lastly, if I purchase a staggered set of wheels...can I use them on both road courses and straight lining?

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    It really depends on how much you want to spend, how fast you want to go and if you plan on other things for your car. If you can only purchase one set of wheels and they will be street and track duty both then go forged.

    I recommend just starting like you are and do not worry about the wheels. Your wheels will do just fine for a while. Use good street rubber (cooper nitto etc) and have fun. Street tires let you know before they lose grip and that is the place to learn. Spend money on brakes and track time first.

    Wheels are a lot of personal taste and how much you wish to spend. It is nice to have a set of track wheels if you can and there are a lot of options. I like these... http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=505 I bought a cheap set of GT500 wheels for track tires but am on the lookout for two more Trak Pak wheels to complete my second set. Keep them the same width and the tires the same as it can mess with the abs system if you have big changes.

    Knoxville is not so far from VIR so keep Memorial Day weekend open!

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    WV is right on point. Brakes and seat time. Staggered wheels are bad for road courses with Mustangs ... but it can be done. Some cars are meant to be staggered ... our Mustangs are not.

    Great advice Kevin. I may have to do this VIR thing on Memorial day. It should be mandatory for everyone East of the Mississippi to do VIR and Watkins Glen to be a member on fnsweet.com! LOL

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    I have a second set of cast wheels that I picked up used, and installed Cooper RS3 rubber for track days. I use Hawk HP Plus pads which have really nice bite. I would not stagger the tire size as you will want to "rotate" your tires from front to back to maximize your tire life. Tracking is hell on the outside "corner" of the tire.

    Road racing and drag racing have different requirements. I just don't think you will find a good combination of rim/tire that will be good at both.


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    I have the FR500 wheels with BFG KD'S I like them alot they have a slightly wider stance on the car due to the back-set and that is good for road racing plus they are one of the only wheels out there that will fit over the Roush Stop Tech Brakes.

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    Wheels

    Just sold my Enkei PF01s to my track buddy for his 07 GT and ordered a set of D-Force wheels throgh Vorshlag. I just coud'nt resist the 19.5 pound wheel weight for that price.
    I have a set of Toyo R888s to go on the new wheels and they will strictly be used for Sonoma Raceway. This is a 40 minute commute for me and feel that I can swap out my cast Roush rims currently shod with Cooper RS3 tires and drive back and forth to this track.
    If I go to a track further away, like Thunderhill or Laguna-Seca, then will trailer the car there as I have limited cycles left in the Toyos.
    Just to share my impressions with the Roush wheels and Coopers. I have 1 track day on that set up, they were the last set of 210 treadwear RS3s left in the state not the new RS3-S tires. I've weighed my Roush wheels at 37 pounds each (heavy). They don't squeal like the original Zeon 2XS tires and this took a little while to get used to, but the the extra grip was amazing. One word of advise, if and when you get new wheels, please get a set of track dedicated tires with them (way more performance gains noticed).
    Can't wait for the D-Force wheels and after a few more paychecks will probably get Hoosiers to go on them.

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    Nothing much to add that hasn't been already been post, 2nd the suggestion of purchasing a used set of used GT500's to get started then save your money for some better equipment has years go on.

    After almost 20 years and 4 different track cars I'm still upgrade my equipment I recently purchased a NecksGen (next generation Hans device) and a new 3 layer driving suit.

    Also love my D-force and NT01's - looking to hit the track one more time this year, either the 13th at The Ridge or PIR the 21st
    Finally got me an enclosed trailer earlier this year, been awhile but planning on making it back to Thunderhill in 2013.
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    Why are staggered wheels not good?

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    Quote Originally Posted by gfuji View Post
    Why are staggered wheels not good?
    For the same reason that they don't recommend putting big brakes on the back of a Mustang. It throws off the bias on the anti lock brakes and it also makes the car less predictable. The ability to rotate tires from front to back is also important if you are going to track your car. I run -2 degrees of camber and by rotating the fronts to the back and adds longevity to the tires. Other wise the fronts would suffer premature wear.

    Having said all that ... if I were just going to cruise around in my Stang I would have it staggered ... but since I do more than that I run Toyo 888's 275 40 18's on all 4 corners.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gtncpa View Post
    I may have to do this VIR thing on Memorial day. It should be mandatory for everyone East of the Mississippi to do VIR and Watkins Glen to be a member on fnsweet.com! LOL
    Totally agree!

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    Quote Originally Posted by gfuji View Post
    Why are staggered wheels not good?
    Mustangs have a slight understeer..with all 4 tires the same width ! If you stagger em, you will make the under steer worse. The bigger the stagger, the worse the under steer. That's why I went with a 255 front...and 275 rear stagger. (20mm stagger). The max you want to go is a 30mm stagger..... like a 255-285 combo........... or a 275-305 combo. The ideal setup for a staggered look would be 275-295. With a 20mm stagger, for street use, even on twisty bits at high speed, the car handles fine. I run -1 deg of camber. Then no premature tire wear. If you have an adjustable rear sway bar, it can be tweaked to minimize understeer. You can also increase the front tire pressure a bit to minimize understeer.

    With 255 fronts, I don't require the Roush steering stops. Turning radius is then better. That is important to me, just to be able to make it through 4 x 90 deg tight bends at the drive through. That, and being able to make U turns without having to back up..cuz of a too big a turning radius.

    Jimbo

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    In layman terms, if you stagger the tires/wheels, then in a corner you will push...meaning while you're trying to turn, the front of the car (front wheels/tires) will push straight into the corner instead of following your steering input to turn. This happens due to the extra traction in the rear over powering the front wheel traction and just pushing the car into the turns.

    Does that make sense??
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    Yes.
    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by AutoXRacer View Post
    In layman terms, if you stagger the tires/wheels, then in a corner you will push...meaning while you're trying to turn, the front of the car (front wheels/tires) will push straight into the corner instead of following your steering input to turn. This happens due to the extra traction in the rear over powering the front wheel traction and just pushing the car into the turns.

    Does that make sense??

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    under-steer - you hit the wall nose first
    over-steer - hit the wall @ss first

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    So with me running 275 front and 295 rear is good then just to drive around, but if I was thinking of starting to track a little more often then it is a good idea to stick to what our cars came with correct?

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    If you are just starting .... you will be fine. Its when you start to run your car to its limit that the issue becomes noticeable.

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    So starting out I could stay staggered then, but if I decide to do track days like a lot of you guys do then it would be a good idea to go same sizes at all 4 corners

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    Starting out you will be fine as you need to find your limits before you push it. You can feel the front push and slowly lift to keep the car turning (emphasis on "slowly").

    Truth is these cars with all four tires the same push so to be fast you want to eliminate all the push you can. Camber plates and sticky tires help and you eventually learn to be fast with the slide. I chunked the center section out of the front tires the last time at VIR sliding them. I have all four tires the same and almost 2 degrees of camber. This thing is like a slot car compared to my 07 GT with FRPP shocks and struts and Eibach springs. I want more camber! I can only imagine the push on an unmodified GT500 with the old iron block 5.4.

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    I do try to go to as many SCCA events that are held in the Vegas area when I can, but due to my military and also my civilian job I haven't really had that much of a chance. There is a track up near my house called Spring Mountain, but it is so damn expensive and there is no ford clubs that go there that I know of

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    So go ruin the Chevy club's day!



    Quote Originally Posted by Mikes07427R View Post
    I do try to go to as many SCCA events that are held in the Vegas area when I can, but due to my military and also my civilian job I haven't really had that much of a chance. There is a track up near my house called Spring Mountain, but it is so damn expensive and there is no ford clubs that go there that I know of

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