Are any of the above actually required ? At what point are they used, with sticky tires ?
I think badpiggy said he was going to weld the axle tubes. The word is, the entire axle has to be removed from the car, axles removed from each end, LSD removed, and then an alignment rod stuffed through it, then the entire mess is put into a jig. You can't weld em while in place on a lift, or jackstands.
They have to be dead aligned b4 welding..and the 360 deg weld has to be done in one continuous sequence, then you let it cool. The story I'm getting is the cool down sequence is what causes the outer axle tubes to warp/shift..hence the use of the jig, so it doesn't. Here we are talking about welding the axle tubes to the differential.
Another option is the various axle braces sold by CHE+ also UPR etc.
Then you also have the various Aluminum axle girdles...aka differential covers.
I take it that one or more of the above 3 methods could be employed. If you have a watts link, I doubt the axle girdle would fit since the watts link arms might be in the way. The whiteline watts link already comes with a new AL differential cover which might be enough support.
Ok, the above support schemes I think are for folks who drag race..and use sticky tires and drop the clutch at 4-5k rpm. Baffles me why ford didn't just weld the axle tubes to the housing in the 1st place. Some have said that in some cases that is not enough support and that axle braces also have to be used. IE: cracked welds, etc.
What kind of hp are we talking about here to bend the axle tubes outa shape ? Or is this just a pre-heated sticky tire/drag strip scenario ?
I'm thinking in terms of where either the LSD and /or rear gears are replaced, or watts link is installed. IE: while the rear end is all apart anyway, then perhaps do the axle tube welding on the jig/axle tube brace etc....and do it all at once....in the correct sequence.