Some new pix of BMR + rear steeda STB, etc.

[Pentalab]

Rainy day at the annual car show this Sunday. We used 2 flash's to try and show the BMR stuff at back end. BMR parts are red, Roush stuff is blue. I pulled the side carpet out to show how the rear steeda STB was tig welded into place. It sit's .25 above the carpet. The BMR pan hard bar is 1.25" OD in red. The BMR pan hard brace is also red, rectangular tubing, and located right above the pan hard bar. BMR relocate brackets can just be seen. Aeroforce gauges on a SOS A pillar. Not a good day for pix...with grass still wet. After it was all over at 3 PM... then the sun comes out, go figure.

Jimbo

[TonyW]

Those gauges are killer.

[mpm_1]

+1 on the BMR LCA re-loc brackets... recently installed a set.... car is 2010 427R with full Roush suspension package and 20 inch wheels, so went with middle hole on the re-locs to ensure lower at the axle end of the lca... last two pics are back at ground level

[walker2t]

can't remember if you said before, but how do you get three gauges to plug into one obi port? is there a splitter or three way adapter... I agree on the gauges. killer look....

[Pentalab]

can't remember if you said before, but how do you get three gauges to plug into one obi port? is there a splitter or three way adapter... I agree on the gauges. killer look....

The 1st pair of gauges have their own cable..... which combines into just ONE OB right angle plug. ( a single gauge has one cable, that feeds the same type of right angle OB plug)

The normal deal for a single or dual gauge setup is to just plug the one OB plug into the OB jack. The single or dual cables are all hidden, since the cables exit the plug at a right angle ( out the side).

Todd, who owns aeroforce, can supply a 2 in, one out splitter. It consist of a real heavy duty OB plug, with two x 1 foot long cables coming out of it. At the end of each of the cables is another OB jack. (all molded at all 3 points of the "Y")

My single gauge (with its single 9' cable + plug) plugs into one leg of the splitter. The dual gauges each have their own 9' cable...and combine into one OB plug.... which plugs into the other half of the splitter.

The 1 foot long pair of heavy duty cables that make up the "Y" splitter, are folded under the dash, where the entire mess is ty-rapped. All the slack from the 3 x 9' cables is 1st wrapped into small coils and ty-rapped, then plugged into the splitter cables.

I have a 4th cable from the very top aeroforce gauge.... already plugged into one of the 2 x AUX inputs on top gauge... to be used for the wideband O2 AFR sensor setup. This 4th cable is coiled up for now, till I get the O2 bung welded into place. There will be a cable from O2 bung over to the sensor input box, then the coiled up r cable goes between sensor box and AUX #1 input of the top aeroforce gauge. My 2010 GT does not have the AFR wide band O2 sensor built into the exhaust (and neither do the 05-09 cars). Hence the 2 AUX inputs on EACH aeroforce gauge. So I have a total of SIX aux inputs, to be used for anything that is NOT supported by the car's ECU.

You folks with the 2011-2013 cars are lucky, your cars come with TWO wideband O2 bungs already built in, one per exhaust manifold, and both of em are PRE-cat.... AND both are tied into the cars ECU. So if you have a 2011-2013 car, the aeroforce gauges will read AFR right off the OB port on your car, no need to muck about feeding extra cables into aux inputs.

On a side note, the SCT-X3 tuner box has TWO jacks on it, one at top, and the 2nd on the bottom. Bottom (printer style) jack uses a standard printer cable to hook to the lap top's USB port.
Top connector on the SCT-X3, is a analog fire wire connector... to be used for data logging stuff not supported by the car's ECU...like my AFR sensor. This works good, since the SCT-X3 can data log 99 % of what I want (everything on your ecu jack)... and anything else is logged viz the firewire port. In the case of data logging AFR, I temp unplug my cable from the AFR sensor box, (other end of this same cable goes to aux input of aeroforce gauge) and run a new cable from sensor box to firewire port on SCT-X3.

These 6 x AUX inputs come in handy. Even the 2011-2013 cars don't have a real oil pressure gauge in em, nor an oil temp gauge, nor a real eng water coolant gauge, nor a SC water coolant gauge.

The "oil pressure gauge" in these car's is stuck at 75% of full scale at all times.... it's a dummy gauge. (It should fluctuate between idle + 2 krpm). The car reads cyl head temp.... but uses that info to derive an estimated "coolant" temp.

The aeroforce gauges have alarms up the ying yang. Which can also be combined with 'and' and 'or' combo's. EG: IF oil pressure DROPS below XXX psi AND RPM is above say 5 krpm, then bring in an alarm. All the extra sensors like for oil pressure, BOOST, oil temp, coolant temps etc... put out a 0-5 vdc signal... which is what is cabled to the AUX inputs of the aeroforce gauges. I'd rather have a 0-5 vdc signal on a cable, routed through the firewall, VS an actual oil line ( hot and under pressure) being fed to an analog oil pressure gauge. With my luck, the line would come apart, spewing 240 deg F oil inside the dash !

Aeroforce also has a relay driver board, which can control a slew of external 40++ amp relay's if you want. Then you can use em to do stuff like... turn on a big fan, placed in front or behind your HE..when the temp inside the manifold reach's XXX degs. Not having a real oil pressure gauge in these cars is completely stupid, imo.

As is, the ECU supports stuff like individual cat temps, auto tranny temps, calculated hp, spark advance, fuel pump pressure at back end of car, fuel rail pressure at front end of car (and the fuel filter is in between those 2 points), fuel pump duty cycle etc, etc. The entire list is a mile long. My cats track withing 1 deg F of each other. (typ 1450 F cruising and 1750 at WOT). If they don't track, then one of em is partially obstructed. Any of this stuff can be alarmed. There should also be fluid level indication in both reservoir bottles. I had a leak in my mopar yrs ago, and lost almost all the coolant from the eng, and NO indication of a hot motor either. ( it measured coolant temp back then, and not cyl head temp). Since all the coolant had drained, the sensor was hanging in mid air.
The only indication was the heater didn't work ! Almost lost an eng.

Eventually, the top gauge will be dedicated ( at least for a while) to AFR and spark advance. The bottom gauges will be set to cyclic scan, then I can scan through 16 items. 4 pairs on each of the bottom 2 gauges.

A week ago, the breather tube on the auto tranny came off... and it started slipping, but only when cold. I could see that right away on the aeroforce gauge, well b4 I could feel it. ATF all over the place, I had lost a bunch. The auto tranny temp was climbing faster than normal too. Nipped that one in the bud.....(had 2 qts in the trunk, and breather fixed the next day)....so the new gauges have already paid for themselves.

Jimbo

[Pentalab]

mpm_1 How do you like the traction with your LCA's now lower at the axle end. I used the top hole on mine... which put my BMR LCA's exactly 1" lower at the axle end. That made a huge difference. From a 5-6 mph roll in 1st gear, hammer it, and no wheel hop, and no tire spin, it just hooks and goes. B4 it was wheel hop, loads of tire spin etc. Even from a roll, all in 2nd gear, back end was all over the place, esp above 5 krpm. At the top end of 2nd gear, it would lose traction again.

IMO, BMR has the better LCA relocate bracket vs the Steeda version. The BMR version has the extra piece of steel up the side. The BMR version also has the extra piece of steel going up the back. The BMR version is bolted in 3 places..whereas the steeda version is only bolted in one place.... and hence HAS to be welded into place. You can also weld the BMR relocate brackets in, so they are bolted in 3 places and also welded.....but BMR sez they only have to be welded in real high hp applications. I can see that if I used the middle or lowest hole on the BMR, that the leverage effect on the 3 bolts would be immense, and I too would weld em. (LCA's 2-3" lower at axle end). The steeda has 4 holes to pick from, but it appears that the very top hole is too close to the transverse mounting bolt above it. The top hole on the steeda does NOT have the re-enforced,laminated plate, only the bottom 3 holes. The inside width on the top hole on the steeda is way too wide cuz of that, ( an extra .5").. and no LCA will fit anyway, too much side to side slop, unless shimmed. http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-m...-brackets.html (click on....."click image to enlarge", you can see it right away)

I also looked at the CHE version. It only has 1 hole to pick from, and is only bolted in 2 x places. The CHE has the extra piece of steel up one side, but does not have the extra piece of steel up the back.

So far so good. They clear everything, even though close to the ground. Hit a speed bump, and rear tires rise..and so do the brackets. With my 18" rims, IF I had a flat rear tire, it appears the relocate brackets would be just a bit above the ground. With a 17" rim, I think you would be in trouble. Any 19 or 20" rim would not be any issues.

Later....... Jimbo

[mpm_1]

So far so good on traction. Made the call on the BMR stuff for quality of construction and the fact that they are bolt in. Wanted to have it done before I put more power to the ground as I have a 2.49 pulley + idler, new plugs, FRPP TB, and JDM tune soon to be installed.

[Pentalab]

So far so good on traction. Made the call on the BMR stuff for quality of construction and the fact that they are bolt in. Wanted to have it done before I put more power to the ground as I have a 2.49 pulley + idler, new plugs, FRPP TB, and JDM tune soon to be installed.

Yikes, your gonna need the extra traction once the JDM stage 4 kit is installed ! That alone is 440rwhp on any 05-09 car..( with stock twin 55 mm TB).
On a 2010 M90 setup, on one of VMP's dyno archives, they depict 462 rwhp. The extra 22 rwhp comes from (a) chopping the vanes from the airbox, (7rwhp)..... and (b) the combo of the FRPP twin 62mm TB + much shorter air tube on the 2010 (15 rwhp). Toss in a 93 octane tune + a DSS driveshaft, and you now have a rocket. In my own case, on my 2010 GT + M90.. I had VMP do a 93 octane tune (no ethanol). I later added 1 deg of timing globally, to take advantage of the chevron 94 octane I buy ( no ethanol in it). I had new brisk plugs installed (not colder).. + the FRPP twin 62mm TB and the K+N filter. I left the vanes intact, and opted not to install the 2.49" pulley + 80mm idler. The end result is night + day. The 91 octane (with ethanol) Roush tune pales in comparison. It now pulls extremely hard in 2nd gear. You are gonna be in a for a rude awakening. The throttle response will be near instantaneous. Keep an eye on your fuel pump duty cycle, fuel pump pressure, fuel rail pressure, and spark advance....+ AFR. If your fuel pump duty cycle is getting close to maxed out, the VMP wiring mod, with just one piece of 10 or 12 ga wire (to reduce Voltage drop) will reduce the pump duty cycle by at least 10%.

Superb pix btw. For folks not familiar with the BMR relocate brackets, his 1st pix is on the pass side.... and 2nd pix is on the driver's side. On the driver's side, that extra piece of steel going up the back end is tucked inside of the oem LCA mount, and the pan hard bar bolt goes through the relocate bracket.

Jimbo

[mpm_1]

You are gonna be in a for a rude awakening

can't wait !

yes - will definitely be logging to check fuel system status and evaluating from there what may need to be done

[gtncpa]

Very nice. The 2nd picture. Is that where the back seat is? I was going to do a strut tower brace in the back. I have not looked for one yet.

[Pentalab]

Very nice. The 2nd picture. Is that where the back seat is? I was going to do a strut tower brace in the back. I have not looked for one yet.

No. It is in the trunk. Pix shows the passenger side. It's steeda pn P/N 555-5750 It has to be tig welded into place, but this is no big issue. It went in very quickly. AM has a much better pix of it, on a 2011. (it fits any 05-13 car ). http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda...wer-brace.html See the 2 customer pix.
As far as I know, steeda is the only game in town for a rear STB. The steeda brace uses spherical ends...and is also reverse threaded at one end. It's real easy to adjust, then forget about it. It sits .25" above the rear carpet. This works great, and does not impede anything, when I have one or both back seats folded down. You can still stuff anything in there that you want. Built like a tank..and light. Made from 4130 chromolly steel.

One of the brackets had to be massaged a tiny bit..so it was flush to the sheet metal that surrounds the rear shocks. The welder had that one figured out in 2 mins flat, then the tig welding began. After welding done, I masked it all off, and applied a half doz coats of zinc. That stuff drys in front of your eyes. When all done, carpet floor is re-installed, ( 1 min job) then the side carpet pieces are put back in. ( I had the side carpet pieces pulled back while tig welding) Also pulled it back for the 2nd pix.

Jimbo

[gtncpa]

Thx for the info.

[Pentalab]

Thx for the info.

I forgot one thing. You can still easily lift the floor up to gain access to the spare tire, just like b4.
The rear STB does not inhibit anything.

Jimbo

[Utmost1]

Do you think you notice any difference in rigidity with that rear brace?

[Pentalab]

Do you think you notice any difference in rigidity with that rear brace?

Yes I did. The whole back end feels more..."solidified" Slightly less flexing going on. The trouble with all these mods is.... I get used to em after a while..then forget what it was like b4. I got a ride in a friend's bone stock 2008 GT vert recently. ( I have never been in another mustang except my own).
The difference between his bone stock 08 GT vert (300 crank hp) and my modified 2010 GT (480 crank hp) is like a night + day difference. The stock 08 leans and rolls in the corner's, doesn't brake as well, doesn't accelerate worth bannana's, etc, etc.

After adding the roush suspension, and lowering the car 1", then adding all the various BMR parts, and then the steeda front and rear STB's, and the FRPP K frame brace + BMR A arm brace, wider Nitto 555 tires, new power slot rotors, HPS pads, SS-teflon brake lines, ATE fluid, new VMP 94 octane tune, and bigger TB, M90 blower, and the list goes on and on...... its no wonder the difference. The stock GT will nose dive under braking. Hit the gas, and the front end lifts a mile off the ground, back end squats. They don't corner flat either. Bone stock GT is a 'nice car'...but pales in comparison to a modified car. That was a real eye opener, and then some. I still can't believe the difference's.

In a few hours from now, the new steeda front strut mounts (adjustable camber) get installed. I'm gonna get em to tweak em both for -1.2 degs of camber. At the same time, the new steeda 555-5553 - Steeda Front Swaybar Mount Brace's get installed. Now this should be the last piece of the puzzle.

All done...well not quite ! My DSS-DS is finally in... and being shipped in 5 hrs. The DS is next weeks project. The wide-band O2 bung has to be welded in after that. Then that's it for this season.

On a side note, 25 of us went for a drive about 40 miles north, 2 months ago, for a club meeting + lunch.( sunday morning, zero traffic) I got hung up at a red light on the hwy for 3 mins. I had at least a half doz mustangs behind me. Light turns green, and I had it up to 100 mph in 12 secs or less. I look in the mirror, and the woman behind me in her 1967 stang was at least 1100' behind me. Going up the twisty steep hill to the 1200' elevation, over the top, and down the other side... and they were miles behind. Funny watching these 1964 and half stangs troddling along in front of me. The body roll on em is unreal when they hit tight corners. I crawled under a few of them later on...and noticed leaf springs, tiny drum brakes, no rack and pinion steering. Grab the wheel well, and I can lift it.. what seems like way too much. Your typ soft suspension from the 60's era. Some had in line 6 cyl motors, some had small V8's. They are a lot lighter though. A few of them look like they almost have a reverse rake to them. It sure has come a long way since those days. But the wx was nice...the food was good, and everybody enjoyed themselves.

Jimbo

[2010-Stage3]

Jimbo, Where did you find the FRPP K-Frame Brace? Thanks

[Pentalab]

Jimbo, Where did you find the FRPP K-Frame Brace? Thanks

http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com...p/m-5025-a.htm
Part Number: M-5025-A

They call it an "A arm brace".. but it actually ties the two sides of the back end of the oem K frame together. ( instead of the actual A arms just in front of it)

My 2010 GT coupe already had it installed. Ford used it on 2005+ verts only... but not the coupes until I think 2009. Look underneath your 2010-Stage 3..and you should see it there already. It's aprx 5-6" aft of the eng oil drain plug.

The steeda G trac A arm brace and also the BMR A arm brace both get installed at the same place... which is the inner bolts on the A arm itself.
I installed the BMR A arm brace a few weeks ago..... and it is parallel..and aprx 2-3" in FRONT of the existing FRPP "A arm brace" Both the BMR and steeda brace are just a few inchs aft of the eng oil oil drain plug.

The FRPP "A arm brace" doesn't directly tie the A arms together but instead the back end of the K frame. The BMR + steeda A arm brace does tie the A arms together, but doesn't ties the back ends of the K frame together. So now I have em both.

What really works good are the steeda front sway bar mount braces I had installed last week. ( along with the steeda adjustable camber strut mounts). These things are aprx 11" long, made from 1" OD 4130 chromolly steel tubing, and weigh 12.5 oz's each. http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-f...d-mustang.html It's like re-enforcing the corner's of a rectangle, same as what you see for re-enforcing on 8' step ladder's. Works good, and fast install. Wife finally at long last found my battery charger for my new camera, so now I can take loads of pix, and not have to rely on friends ( who never get it right).

Jimbo

[808muscle]

Jimbo pics look really cool. I am liking those BMR parts. I have been considering lowering mine with some BMR springs and doing my research as too what it all involves. My big issue is how will lowering my car an inch effect my deep PA trans pan clearence? It seems really low already IMO.

[Pentalab]

Jimbo pics look really cool. I am liking those BMR parts. I have been considering lowering mine with some BMR springs and doing my research as too what it all involves. My big issue is how will lowering my car an inch effect my deep PA trans pan clearence? It seems really low already IMO.

ZERO issues with my roush suspension and deeper pan. Front springs are down just less than an inch. Rear is down 1" for sure. Never even come close to hitting anything.

Jimbo