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Thread: Oil recommendations

  1. #1
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    Oil recommendations

    Hi guys,

    I'm looking to change the oil soon and was doing some research.

    People are recommending a heavier oil than the 5w20 for supercharged engines.

    I live in a country with 120+ weather all summer, and it gets pretty humid too. Brutal conditions for a supercharged vehicle.

    What intervals do you guys recommend for changing the oil and the oil filter in those conditions ?

    I read on the manual 5000 miles, and on the internet at least 4000. The reasons I read were that there's a special oil that helps things to settle in better and should remain in the engine for the first 5k miles, not sure if true or if I understood correctly.

    I bought the Motorcraft FL500S oil filter online already since it's not available here. Just researching the oil so I could look around and see if it's available here. I know for a fact that Mobil 1 is available, and is the most expensive in fact, just need to know which oil weight I should go with.

    Appreciate the help, you guys are great.

    AJ
    2012 Roush Stage 3 Convertible - 82mm Pulley - CJ Throttle Body - Off-road X - VMP Tune

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    5w20 is what I have used for 5 years in my 428R and I plan to use it in my 2013 that is due this month. Don't know if Amsoil is available to you but it always rates high. I have the Roush Valvoline 5w20 in mine right now but it is no longer being produced.
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    there are alot of threads on here about oil and the general consensus is that most people run 5w20-5w30 on supercharged engines. there is little to no difference betweent the 2, just cafe rules and politics. its the forged engines with the looser tolerances that need the heavier viscosity ie 5w50. youll see shelby, roush and frpp running these on their forged engines. the first oil should be dyno oil and be in no longer than the first hundred miles and then changed so that contaminants are flushed out and then up to the first 1k so that ringlands seat properly. after that can use full synthetic. i run amsoil signature 5w30.

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    Amsoil signature 5w30. You can order it online directly from amsoil and if you sign up you will get a huge discount. I sign up order what I need for 2 years and signup again when I need more (wouldnt keep paying annually)
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    Quote Originally Posted by luckychance View Post
    there are alot of threads on here about oil and the general consensus is that most people run 5w20-5w30 on supercharged engines. there is little to no difference betweent the 2, just cafe rules and politics. its the forged engines with the looser tolerances that need the heavier viscosity ie 5w50. youll see shelby, roush and frpp running these on their forged engines. the first oil should be dyno oil and be in no longer than the first hundred miles and then changed so that contaminants are flushed out and then up to the first 1k so that ringlands seat properly. after that can use full synthetic. i run amsoil signature 5w30.
    How come the Roush 2013 RS3's all say.... "5W-50" on the oil cap, yet the motor is just a plane jane 5.0 Coyote eng ?
    I can't even imagine 120+ deg F temps..and high humidity. When the WX office quotes air temps, it's always done in the shade. In direct sunlight, it's way more. 5W-20 won't work in those high temps, and you usually can't buy 5W-20 outside of north america. In Europe the standard is either 0W-40 or 5W-40
    (which is what Ford sez to use), in asia, Australia, mexico, etc, Ford sez to use 5W-20 in winter, and 10w-30 in summer. Only in the usa/canada, ford sez to use 5W-20.

    I see QTR has an automatic. The auto tranny cooler in the 05-09 is a 4-6 pass type, sandwiched between the eng rad and AC rad, (where it's only 70% as effective). On my 2010 automatic, the tranny cooler is a single pass type, just 12" long, and sandwiched between the bottom of the AC rad and the roush HE. I don't know what Ford uses for the auto tranny cooler in the 11-13 cars. Mine is useless at best, so I replaced the oem steel auto tranny pan with a deeper, aluminum one, hold an extra 4 qts of ATF. These deeper pans also come with a dipstick, comes out next to battery. Oem steel pan has NO dipstick on 05-13 cars. You could be down 1-2 qts and never know it. The deeper one for the 11-13 cars is also ribbed AL, and holds an extra 3 qts. I thought the deeper pan would do the trick, well it's better, but still not good enough. The problem with the oem tranny cooler on mine, is the 1.5" round fins they use are jammed up against the AC rad on aft side, and the Roush HE on the front side. I'm removing it in a few weeks, and replacing it with a B+M 13,000 BTU tranny cooler, which is a bar + plate type, http://bmracing.com/?wpsc-product=au...ted-11x7-12x34 It's impervious to road debris, and only weighs 22 oz. 11" x 7.5" x 3/4" . Being only 3/4" thick, it will now easily fit between AC rad and HE. Also installed the JDM eng catch can for the auto tranny, then you don't keep losing ATF all over the ground ! (they make one for the 11-13 cars)

    Right now, my tranny temp will rise 15 deg F in just a matter of a few secs with blower on.....hence replacing the tranny cooler....with a real one.

    Since you are in blazing hots temps, the oem eng rad isn't going to cut it...and esp with a blower. The rad from the Boss 302 will fit your car, but is only a bit better, and folks still have had heat issues with it. FRPP and AFCO make the real deal for an eng rad. http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com...m-8005-mgt.htm You can get a better oil pan for your eng...and also an eng oil cooler. The high flow upper grille will help.....as would hood heat extractor's.

    Coyote eng, automatic tranny, + blower + being in the middle east..then using 5W-20, I don't think so. Use the FRPP oil filter, 50% heavier than oem, and 60% bigger internal filter surface area, central tube inside is stainless steel, with bigger holes in it for sustained high rpm. I buy em by the caseload.

    Jimbo

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    I don't daily drive the car, and when I go out it's usually at night when it's "cooler" So I hope I won't need all those upgrades.

    Yeah, after a closer look at the market here, there isn't any 5w20, Mobil 1 has 0w40 only and I'm not sure if this is a good match for our weather or not ?

    I can buy online, Is Amsoil the best ? What's that FRPP Oil filter part number if you have it handy ?
    2012 Roush Stage 3 Convertible - 82mm Pulley - CJ Throttle Body - Off-road X - VMP Tune

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    Quote Originally Posted by QTR View Post
    I don't daily drive the car, and when I go out it's usually at night when it's "cooler" So I hope I won't need all those upgrades.

    Yeah, after a closer look at the market here, there isn't any 5w20, Mobil 1 has 0w40 only and I'm not sure if this is a good match for our weather or not ?

    I can buy online, Is Amsoil the best ? What's that FRPP Oil filter part number if you have it handy ?
    Ford racing FL-820 http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com...6731-fl820.htm or by the case... http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com...6731-fl820.htm

    Steeda.com sells em as do others. I think you can also get them from amazon.com

    Amsoil is good oil. I use Royal Purple 5W-30 myself. Just make sure it's 100% synthetic...and not "synthetic blend"... ( which is only 2-5% synthetic).
    0W-40 or 5W-40 synthetic will work just fine..and esp with your hot wx.

    Just one aeroforce digital gauge plugged into your OBT port will tell you at a glance what your tranny temp, cyl head temp, and eng rad temp is..+ 30 other items as well. Then you have a reference point as to what is "normal" .

    Jimbo

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    I always prefer Amazon when available, so is the the one, Jimbo ? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

    They list the part number slightly different for some reason.
    2012 Roush Stage 3 Convertible - 82mm Pulley - CJ Throttle Body - Off-road X - VMP Tune

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    Quote Originally Posted by QTR View Post
    I always prefer Amazon when available, so is the the one, Jimbo ? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

    They list the part number slightly different for some reason.
    Yes, this is the one..... they just left off the...."0" on the end. The FRPP Part Number: CM-6731-FL820 I checked, and FRPP does not make a "FL-82" filter.

    Dunno about you folks, but I change the oil + filter every 6 months regardless of mileage.

    It would be real interesting to know what the various temps reach in your car..with your heat. Here's what I use http://www.americanmuscle.com/aerofo...ptor-0512.html You can get em in single, dual or triple gauges. You can mount em anywhere, like the A pillar, or the vent pods, or even up on the dash, where that dipped in recess is (the boss 302 pod is one example). Scroll down, and you will see the partial list of stuff it will read....and do em two at a time on just one gauge. Program it in cyclic scan mode if you want, and every XXX secs, it grabs another pair of items. My auto tranny hit 200F last summer... on a 75F day.... and that's with the deeper pan and an extra 4 qts. It was even more without the deeper pan. Heat will kill these auto tranny's. Stock, the mustang auto tranny is a daft setup. No dipstick, ATF being purged out the vent onto the ground when in blower mode, not enough fluid to begin with, and too small a tranny cooler, and dyno oil instead of synthetic.

    You will get a real eye opener with just one gauge installed. On your 2012 it gets even better, since the 11-13 cars already come with a wideband 02 sensor built into each side. Then you can see your AFR ratio at a glance. You can do a ton of other stuff too, like read battery voltage, see how many G's you are pulling, see fuel mileage in real time ( instead of averaged), and other stuff like TQ converter lock up status, slippage of tq converter, fuel pump and fuel rail pressure. It's a good diagnostic tool, so you can also see DTC's...and also clear them ( diagnostic trbl codes). When its hot out, I'm always monitoring cyl head temps, eng rad temps, and auto tranny temps. Simple hookup, just plug the cable into the back of the digital meter, and other end into the obd port. It gets even better, you can alarm any of the parameters, since each gauge comes with 2 x red leds..and/or bring in an audible alarm.

    Jimbo

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pentalab View Post
    How come the Roush 2013 RS3's all say.... "5W-50" on the oil cap, yet the motor is just a plane jane 5.0 Coyote eng ?
    Jimbo
    Mine says 5W-20 on the cap (non TrackPac). The Boss and GT's with the TrackPak are to use 5W-50. See no reason the OP couldn't use same oil in his special case.
    Dave

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    On another forum they recommended 10w30, so should I use that or 5W-50. I don't know what the difference is honestly.
    2012 Roush Stage 3 Convertible - 82mm Pulley - CJ Throttle Body - Off-road X - VMP Tune

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    The Boss and GT's with the TrackPak are to use 5W-50
    forgot about that, thats what i heard too with '13 models. the amsoil oil rep that i spoke with said that regular dyno oil that is 5w50 ala ford usually breaks down to about 5w30 when it gets hot. so a full synthetic oil like 5w30 from amsoil is just as good if not better due to higher heat tolerances and not reducing viscosity further..im no oil expert though

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    Quote Originally Posted by luckychance View Post
    forgot about that, thats what i heard too with '13 models. the amsoil oil rep that i spoke with said that regular dyno oil that is 5w50 ala ford usually breaks down to about 5w30 when it gets hot. so a full synthetic oil like 5w30 from amsoil is just as good if not better due to higher heat tolerances and not reducing viscosity further..im no oil expert though
    Royal Purple makes OW-20 0W-40 5W-20 5W-30 5W-40 10W-30 10W-40 15W-40 20W-50

    With his sky high temps, 10W-40, 15W-40 or 20W-50 would probably be the ticket. It's all 100% synthetic.

    Jimbo

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    oh snaps i didnt see the 120+ temps in qatar! op, did u buy it there or get it imported? i would think if bought there the manual would address oil recommendations based on the their national climate. if not i would agree with jimbo and do 10w40 and go from there. maybe drop back down 5w if it desert conditions and gets extremely cold in winter months. my 2 cents

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    It's usually more like 110 most of the summer LOL

    Luckychance, I imported the car from the US, Ray Skillman Ford actually, great dealer!
    2012 Roush Stage 3 Convertible - 82mm Pulley - CJ Throttle Body - Off-road X - VMP Tune

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    Quote Originally Posted by QTR View Post
    It's usually more like 110 most of the summer LOL

    Luckychance, I imported the car from the US, Ray Skillman Ford actually, great dealer!
    What is the lowest temps you get during the daytime...in winter ? What's the lowest temps at night, during winter? 5W-40 would work for sure, and 10W-40 is plenty good enough if you don't experience real cold temps in winter. Your "winter" is probably warmer than our summer. lol

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    I'd the say the most extreme "cold" was in the 50 range at night, so yeah
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    Quote Originally Posted by QTR View Post
    I'd the say the most extreme "cold" was in the 50 range at night, so yeah
    Go with 10W-40 synthetic like Royal purple or any other brand of synthetic, like Amsoil or Mobil1. 5W-40 is just as good, but you don't require the extreme sub freezing capabilities of 5W-40.

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