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I regret not doing those while I had the chance. I don't have any alignment issues, but I don't have any adjustment when I go to the track. I would do it all at once to make it easy on yourself. FYI there is little to no adjustments for camber/caster without the plates. I lucked out and it wasn't too bad, a little negative but I'm ok with that.
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![]() 2006 Sport - With full Stage 3 Upgrade 1998 Cobra Roush |
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You will not NEED those parts but they would be nice to have if you intend to autocross or open track your car. FWIW I would reconsider getting the Eibach Pro-Dampers, I have it from good authority that they are crap. You might consider going with Bilstein, Tokico or Koni instead. In fact if you pick and choose your parts carefully you can come up with a very nicely matched set that will perform better and probably do it for the same or less money than that Eibach kit.
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![]() 2005 Roush Sport (pimpmobile) 2002 Mustang GT (grocery getter) 2001 F-250 SD PSD (tow rig) - 1995 Mustang GT (track whore/trailer queen) 1999 Mazda Miata (autocross toy) |
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I would recommend the Adj. Panhard bar as a needed part to align your rear axel under evenly your mustang.
When you lower it by even just a inch you will see by the eye that your axel will sit off just a bit out side your finder. It wont affect your allignment but can affect your handeling at the track. I did this same exact work on my wifes Mustang GT. Here's a photo of her car we used to have but sold it now. Wish we didn't sell it. Yeah thats real Pink Carbon Fiber on the dash we had made for her. It was a really fun car to work on for her. ![]()
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Last edited by RED ROUSH WA : 03-21-2008 at 08:00 AM. |
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you shouldn't need any of the parts. Adjustment is good. The Roush cars come without any of the parts so it will work. I have an adjustable Panhard now but really didn't need it.
Only issue I see is the Eibach stuff. I am just not a fan in their stuff at all. Companies like QA-1 and others make great stuff. What is the price for the Eibach kit?
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