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02-21-2008, 07:07 AM
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Spark Plug Removal Issues???
I have been hearing some things about some issues with removing the spark plugs (mainly the original set). Something about Ford f'ing up and not applying anti-seize when installing the plugs and when they are being removed they tend to break (which is generally a really bad day).
I know most people aren't at the mileage yet to have to replace them, but has anyone had any issues with removing them and having them break? Or has anyone heard similar grumblings? Any ideas on how to social engineer my way into getting my local dealership to go ahead and do a pull and inspect under warranty and have them re-installed WITH anti-seize?
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2005 Roush Sport #05-2083 Mods: Stuff that gets me over the 400 chars max allowed. Dyno: 303rwhp/314rwtq Random Saying: No trees were harmed in the creation of this message - but many thousands of electrons were seriously inconvenienced! 
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02-26-2008, 03:32 PM
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This is a very common problem on these engines. To the point that a removal/repair kit was developed for the modular engine(not a cheap kit @$350) The problem is NOT the threads. The lower part of the plug is smooth and extends through a bore in the head below the threads, carbon build-up locks these two parts together and forces the plug to break below the threads. Later engines had this bore enlarged somewhat. There is a specific procedure from Ford to remove. PART of that is;bring the engine to operating temp,then let it cool some, not hot or cold. If you can, break the plug loose 1/4 turn or more and fill the plug well with wd40,pb blaster or similar to the top of the hex,let it soak 15 minutes and carefully try to remove the sparkplug. You may have to repeat this a few times to extract the plug.A bit of advise would be have the plugs pulled regularly and cleaned and clean the carbon from these bores with a round brush. A dab of antisieze wouldn't hurt either.
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02-27-2008, 08:50 AM
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The problem with the old plugs and also can happen with the HT0's also is that they are 2pc plugs. It's common enough for Ford to make the kit to fix it, and that's why I'll be changing over to the Brisk plugs as soon as I get the money together for them, 'cause they aren't cheap!
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-Steve - '06 Stage 2 Tungsten,Automatic,Roushcharger,Roush off-road exhaust,Custom Steeda SCT tune,3.73 gears, Billet LCAs, Steeda upper adjustable 3rd link,auburn diff,Steeda CAI, 455HP/ 400 Trq, 12.43@110.71mph  
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02-27-2008, 06:39 PM
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Check out this thread it may help.
http://www.modularpowerhouse.com/for...ad.php?t=51117
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2000 Roush Stage 2 // Vortech V2 SQ (412 RWHP 402 RWTQ @11psi) // Paxton Intercooler// MPH Boost Pipe // BBK 75mm Throttlebody // C&L Upper Plenum // BBK Long Tubes // VRS O/R X pipe // 3:73 gears // 31 spline Moser axles // Eaton Posi // Tuned by Modular Powerhouse
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02-28-2008, 05:50 AM
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Quote:
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- “If you choose not to decide, you still have made a choice.” Freewill, Permanent Waves, Rush  '07 Roush Stage 3 Mustang My Pictures... Here Open track is awesome. Do it... ProAutoSports
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02-28-2008, 04:28 PM
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Champion has supposedly come out with an improved design to replace the OEM plugs.
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?p=1118047 http://www.championsparkplugs.com/mo...3389&pid=27288
__________________
 2005 Roush Sport (pimpmobile) 2002 Mustang GT (grocery getter) 2001 F-250 SD PSD (tow rig) - 1995 Mustang GT (track whore/trailer queen) 1999 Mazda Miata (autocross toy)
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