Att: Devilsun ??

[Sticker]

Heya..

Question: How much cooler does that new radiator keep your engine/transmission. Also which transmission do you have in your car. I am looking for ways to cut down on the heat in my tranny now.

[DevilSun]

I don't know if it does or not actually. My car especially with the automatic tranny gets pretty warm sometimes. Usually its all at my feet, mostly from the engine against the firewall damn near. At least that's what I think. I'm not fully using the radiator though, everything is set to come on earlier (180 instead of 192 or whatever) except the thermostat, so I need to get a 180 thermostat in there. I hear a lot of heat comes up from the shifter in the manuals...*shrug* I just deal with the heat, part of having a big ass engine

[Sticker]

Thanks for the Info man I appreciate it..

[knuther]

Hey there Devil,,,


wink wink,,,

Hey i got a question for you. How do you like your Panrod bar setup with the ground pounder cover? Is there a noticeable slack being taken up and do you think that the money/worth price was vauluable...

in other words... do ya like it... I know haveing a convertable you are working with more forces that must be delt with but i am serisouly thinking about it.

[DevilSun]

I think the groundpounder / gears created a tad bit more noise, not sure if its just the gears, or if the groundpounder puts a little more friction on it at first. I truthfully can't tell you how deflection feels, I just did the groundpounder at the time because it was ez and efficient to do so, plus better than stock.

As far as the panhard bar, worth every penny plus some probably if you ask me. The car hooked before, we all know this, but to me, it felt as if the ass (body) was floating a lot and giving a lot of body float while the car stayed hooked, but at the same time this physical action on the car would in effect take away some performance due to the fact you're unweighting the body of the car. This was completely removed, and there is no lateral movement of the axle, thus keeping the axle under the car where its supposed to be. Panhard is the best suspension mod I've done to date, but wouldn't work as well on a non-stiffened 'vert I don't think. The install is also easier than normal due to the fact most of our exhaust is side and doesn't route up over axle and out rear, usually in way of panhard bar...the installers like this

[knuther]

yea you know for some reason i have a problem with my right rear lower control arm. It keeps coming loose.... now granted i bought the car with 13,000 on it and it now has 16000 and has came loose once before and took it in... but i felt it again the other day... i am wondering if my bushing's are getting a little wore in the back....


You know we fight a battle every day with our suspention... On the one hand we have a tight great handleing setup but on the other hand its not ment to be driven real hard for a long period of time.... I have no doubt that the car itself will last way into the next decade but i might have to replace some parts that start falling off because of the ablitiy of the already forcefull setup...

I just got new tires on the front.... And had the front lined up again... "i have a guy backhome that will computer cali for 20 bucks... just cause he likes the car" but anyway... i need the caster camber plates because in his eyes and what alot of people have been noticeing on there Stage 2's that front wear is going to happen...

well back to the no nonsence.. I have "with time" been driveing the Roush a little more toward its limits. and have noticed big time that if you get a real good hook up off the straight line that feels like the rear is flexing a little... is this what your talking about? or is it completely corner driven flex your talking about? talking to a guy that has pushed the limits on his 96v6 to the edge... I am a 25yld kid that has never felt anything this strong in cornering before let alone had the tires to do the work, you can powerslide a 215/65/15 around dry pavement all day but i came close to the edge one time in the roush and almost lost it because of the flex in the rear end...

So what i am saying is after this setup you are sitting with a car that you dont feel any flex in anymore?


And to close on this 3 page reply, I have a 00s2 coupe and in your option do you think i should get the panhard first or get the sub frame con from roush...? that i guess in a nut shell is what i am really after in a reply... thanks devil

[knuther]

another one devil, who did you go thru for your susp stuff or did you go straight thru mm.? and what did you go with alum or steele?

[DevilSun]

Yeah the bushings will wear, and I don't know what milage to start looking to replace them at either.

As far as the rear end, it's really hard to describe. I guess the best way that I could repro it would be get going, anywhere from say 40-55 mph, and do a fairly sharp set of linked turns...nothing too extreme or nothing...what happens even if you do it very smoothly is it felt like the back end of the car wanted to pop up and float around, that's teh best I can describe it. Now albeit, the car was still on the ground, but the body of the car seemed to float, and I knew this would have some type of adverse affect on performance. Needless to say, this doesn't happen anymore with the PHB...the back end of the car is so incredibly hooked, in every direction. You can definitely feel the lack of side to side slop when the PHB goes in and you push the car.

As far as subframe connectors, if you don't already have them, don't get the Roush ones. The Roush ones are nice granted, but not all that nice. They're mostly designed to not interfere with the side exhaust with strength second imo. I really need to look into these GRC Step Up SFCs, they're built for side exhaust and probably as strong or stronger than MMs full length sfcs.

I got all my MM stuff thru Modern Performance NW a long time ago, but no matter where you go thru, you'll almost always get the same price, they're very set on their prices. Everyone drop ships thru MM so it doesn't really matter either, I think Mario on here can get MM stuff, so check with him. They have new stuff I'm gonna look into getting I went with the adjustable aluminum rod on my PHB. The rod doesn't take enough pressure to constitute a steel bar I don't think.

As far as order of install, do em both at same time if you can...the PHB will take about an hour to 2 for a good installer to put it in. The SFCs should be much less time consuming, the Roush ones anyways.

[knuther]

thanks bud.

Here is another thought. i was reading about a torque arm. some people suggested that if you go with the panhard that you should really think about the torque arm becuase of the increased stress it puts on your supsension. I am currently email taggin a person at MM about this situation....

here is what they sent me so far about the Roush.


Roush uses urethane in the rear control arms at both ends which is hard on
the chassis, and bad for free suspension movement. Solid urethane in the
control arms in the rear results in tearing of the mounting points on the
chassis, and increased binding of the rear suspension. This can lead to
unpredictable handling and "snap oversteer" as it is called, when the rear
suspension binds, and causes oversteer suddenly when the axle can no longer
move in the direction it needs to travel. I believe his subframe connectors
are bolt on only, which isn't very effective, and because of the exhaust,
you have to sacrifice chassis stiffening. In order to prevent suspension
binding, we recommend our rear lower control arms, combined with stock upper
control arms, or the Ford Motorsport arms. The aluminum panhard bar is our
main bar we sell. In case of an accident, etc., the bar will yield before
you end up bending other suspension parts. The aluminum rod is plenty
strong, and weighs less. Some people just don't trust the aluminum bar, so
we do offer a steel rod. A K-brace is good additional help, especially, if
you aren't willing to put on subframe connectors that would require going to
a factory routed exhaust. As far as recognizing the difference between a 4
or 2 point brace, you may not be able to feel the difference, but if you are
interested in stiffening the chassis, and you don't have long tube headers,
the 4 point brace is a good improvement. Some of the newer mustangs have a
factory k brace, (as does your car) making a replacement less necessary.

Please check out our website and the online catalog. All our prices are on
the site. Look at each part and read the reasons why we build our parts the
way we do, and why we feel our designs are the right solution to better
handling. We have a lot of information about all of our products,
especially our core products like: control arms, panhard bar, strut tower
brace, and our torque arm.

[Ccdemon]

Got another question for you DS= how much did those CC plates cost you, and are they necessary to permanently fix the alignment problem. I am getting my wheels aligned soon cause I getting to much inside wear, and if I need to then I guess I should go ahead and add the CC plates.