Boost Gauge Question

[NickR132]

Anyone think that this is too much Vacuum? For some reason when I get on the gas I can't get a good reading on the boost. I attached this the same way Kev did his car, but I used a 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/4" "T" fitting and made the Autometer rubber boot fit over it...

[06Roush_st_3]

I have seen my car run around there for vacuum. I can't remember where it sits at idle though, but it is close to there on my 06. I know it's not exactly the same but it's close.

[1BAD360R]

Nick, mine sits around that mark also. What do you mean that you can't get a " good " reading on the boost ? Is the pointer jumping around or the reading is not what you think it should be ? If you have a hand vacuum pump or air compressor, you can test the gauge to see if its accurate..

[roushstage2]

Mine sits at about 18-19 at idle (Edit: just checked it and it is more around 16). The one thing that I am curious about is when I let off the gas and slow, it doesn't go above the idle vacuum reading. On my truck, it will go above the idle vacuum, which I thought it would do on my car too because vacuum should(?) increase when decelerating.

[roushstage2]

Pulled out the service disk to find the Ford specs on this:

Intake Manifold Vacuum Test

Bring the engine to normal operating temperature. Connect the Vacuum/Pressure Tester to the intake manifold. Run the engine at the specified idle speed.

The vacuum gauge should read between 51-74 kPa (15-22 in-Hg) depending upon the engine condition and the altitude at which the test is performed. Subtract 4.0193 kPa (1 in-Hg) from the specified reading for every 304.8 m (1,000 feet) of elevation above sea level.

The reading should be steady. If necessary, adjust the gauge damper control (where used) if the needle is fluttering rapidly. Adjust the damper until the needle moves easily without excessive flutter.

Intake Manifold Vacuum Test—Interpreting Vacuum Gauge Readings

A careful study of the vacuum gauge reading while the engine is idling will help pinpoint trouble areas. Always conduct other appropriate tests before arriving at a final diagnostic decision. Vacuum gauge readings, although helpful, must be interpreted carefully.

Most vacuum gauges have a normal band indicated on the gauge face.

The following are potential gauge readings. Some are normal; others should be investigated further.


1. NORMAL READING: Needle between 51-74 kPa (15-22 in-Hg) and holding steady.
2. NORMAL READING DURING RAPID ACCELERATION AND DECELERATION: When the engine is rapidly accelerated (dotted needle), the needle will drop to a low reading (not to zero). When the throttle is suddenly released, the needle will snap back up to a higher than normal figure.
3. NORMAL FOR HIGH-LIFT CAMSHAFT WITH LARGE OVERLAP: The needle will register as low as 51 kPa (15 in-Hg) but will be relatively steady. Some oscillation is normal.
4. WORN RINGS OR DILUTED OIL: When the engine is accelerated (dotted needle), the needle drops to 0 kPa (0 in-Hg). Upon deceleration, the needle runs slightly above 74 kPa (22 in-Hg).
5. STICKING VALVES: When the needle (dotted) remains steady at a normal vacuum but occasionally flicks (sharp, fast movement) down and back about 13 kPa (4 in-Hg), one or more valves may be sticking.
6. BURNED OR WARPED VALVES: A regular, evenly-spaced, downscale flicking of the needle indicates one or more burned or warped valves. Insufficient hydraulic lash adjuster or hydraulic lash adjuster (HLA) clearance will also cause this reaction.
7. POOR VALVE SEATING: A small but regular downscale flicking can mean one or more valves are not seating.
8. WORN VALVE GUIDES: When the needle oscillates over about a 13 kPa (4 in-Hg) range at idle speed, the valve guides could be worn. As engine speed increases, the needle will become steady if guides are responsible.
9. WEAK VALVE SPRINGS: When the needle oscillation becomes more violent as engine rpm is increased, weak valve springs are indicated. The reading at idle could be relatively steady.
10. LATE VALVE TIMING: A steady but low reading could be caused by late valve timing.
11. IGNITION TIMING RETARDING: Retarded ignition timing will produce a steady but somewhat low reading.
12. INSUFFICIENT SPARK PLUG GAP: When spark plugs are gapped too close, a regular, small pulsation of the needle can occur.
13. INTAKE LEAK: A low, steady reading can be caused by an intake manifold or throttle body gasket leak.
14. BLOWN HEAD GASKET: A regular drop of fair magnitude can be caused by a blown head gasket or warped cylinder head-to-cylinder block surface.
15. RESTRICTED EXHAUST SYSTEM: When the engine is first started and is idled, the reading may be normal, but as the engine rpm is increased, the back pressure caused by a clogged muffler (5230), kinked tail pipe or other concerns will cause the needle to slowly drop to 0 kPa (0 in-Hg). The needle then may slowly rise. Excessive exhaust clogging will cause the needle to drop to a low point even if the engine is only idling.
When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the cause. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause concerns such as rough idle, missing on acceleration or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit such as the power brake booster (2005), the unit will not function correctly. Always fix vacuum leaks.

[roushstage2]

I'm guessing mine reads a little bit lower because I have the performance tune on which retards the timing and that I am higher up in the mountains (about 2500 feet or so).

[NickR132]

Thanks guys!

Well I took it for a spin after work and it seems to read the correct pressure during acceleration (couldn't watch the damn thing while watching the road ) but it did bounce around a bit...Maybe I am remembering that some cars are around 15in-hg during idle/cruise speeds.....


Anyway, I found out today that I hooked my damn lights to my fog light switch....DOOH!! So now I can turn them off at night by hitting my fog light button. Haha! When I was running the wires last night I found a wire that powers on when I pull the light switch, so I tapped into that and buttoned everything up! I never thought about checking the fog light switch...

[04roush2]

Mine usually reads around 15

[360Rocket]

I always thought the more vacuum the better. Shows a sign of tight seals and low blowby (good ring seal)

[NickR132]

Originally Posted by 1BAD360R

Nick, mine sits around that mark also. What do you mean that you can't get a " good " reading on the boost ? Is the pointer jumping around or the reading is not what you think it should be ? If you have a hand vacuum pump or air compressor, you can test the gauge to see if its accurate..

I noticed tonight that the gauge does jump around during acceleration.....

[Rider4Life01]

Mine has Vacuum as low as 21 pounds at times..... I was running her pretty had a few days after the install and it started to flutter at 8 pounds.....
couple days later I was ripping on it and got up to 10 pounds, no fluttering... Im assuming thta yours is fine, the Vacuum seems right to me...