+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2
1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 35

Thread: Oil and Lube Omg!!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    NA
    Posts
    3,470

    Exclamation Oil and Lube Omg!!

    Okay people I just changed and lubed her up for the first time only 6k on the clock.

    1St.anyone who does not change and lube their own cars listen up. The stock mustang does not have any suspension zerk fittings(grease fittings)therefore a garage would not be looking for them.This may be why people notice sqeaking in the rear.I tried greasing the rear control arms and one zerk fitting was frozen so I took it out.Guess what it didn't have any grease in side none!!

    So I fixed the fitting and greased all four fittings I could not find any others.
    What is everyones opinion about these factory sealed ball joints and tie rods?I think it would be better to have zerk fittings so you can shoot some grease in every so often for better wear life.

    So please remember to tell the mechanic about these when getting the oil change.

    2Nd. I don't know about the rumors about these cars holding six quarts of oil,but I just put 5 in and it was full on dipstick after a warm up.So I am really confused on this issue.

  2. #2
    knuther's Avatar
    knuther is offline I sure do like pumpkins cotton
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    omaha
    Posts
    1,981
    Ok first off. I dont know who the hell told you 6... cause thats horse crap. I have had 2 mustangs's and my sister has had two sn95's as well and i have changed oil in my 96 prob 30-35 times... I only got it done 2 times at a shop "lazy" And i have never put 6 in Its accually a little extra full after 5 it takes a little to fill up the filter all the way.. I know your sapos to have that filter filled up pretty high before you stick it on but , I hate haveing it to full then when you put it on dumping 5TB all over the floor.

    Depending on what you have some fittings are made to be greased and some arnt i wouldnt recommend putting a zerk into a fitting that is a sealed fitting... NOt a good move. However i have greesed my fittings twice since i have owned it and i dont care about getting a little extra out the side. IF it needs it i would rather have alot of greese in the lower control arms then have them run completely dry becuase i didnt want to get greese on the pretty blue painted stuff..

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    NA
    Posts
    3,470
    Knuther I have read a couple of posts on this site that people are saying their stage III's take 6 quarts so I was just remarking on my experience.As for the factory suspension I was not suggesting adding fittings just looking for opinions an the non greaseable suspension parts for longevity.

  4. #4
    knuther's Avatar
    knuther is offline I sure do like pumpkins cotton
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    omaha
    Posts
    1,981
    HRmmmmmm Yea i was just thinking outloud becuase i had thought about doing that....


    I dont know bout the 6 quarts thing...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    NA
    Posts
    3,470
    It just concerns me that people might be putting 6 quarts in these cars.Talk about over fill.

  6. #6
    Mariob01GT Guest
    Originally posted by mln385
    Knuther I have read a couple of posts on this site that people are saying their stage III's take 6 quarts so I was just remarking on my experience.As for the factory suspension I was not suggesting adding fittings just looking for opinions an the non greaseable suspension parts for longevity.
    Hey, those non greaseable oem ford ball joints will last you way past 100K on the car. I had 120K on my 94 before I totalled it and the drivers side started sqeaking at about 115K so I changed it and the passanger side was still original. THe tie rods I ended up replacing around 60K, they are about $25 at Ford and take no more then 15 minutes each to swap out.

  7. #7
    knuther's Avatar
    knuther is offline I sure do like pumpkins cotton
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    omaha
    Posts
    1,981
    YEa no doubt.

    I just hit 100k on my 96 v6 and i went in and replaced the inner and outer tie rod ends "orignal" as well as the ball joints " i had a bad experience with one blowing apart at 80mph in my camaro ... NOT FUN"

    But if someone were to drive like how do i say this without makeing waves. "a 60 year old women" they would have lasted a great deal longer. However i had put alot of strain on my joints from the years of treating it like a track car...

    the new ball joints that i bought came with zerks and i put them in and filled them but i feel that the engine and tranny will go way before i have to do that again.


    Oh and on another note if someone knows of a better way to get out the ball joints without removeing the lower control arm and pressing them out please let me know becuase that was a 10hour job... OMG ... i dont want to do that again...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    NA
    Posts
    3,470
    Haven't done it on a mustang but other ones,and you can rent the press from the napa store or any other automotive supply and remove while on car.

  9. #9
    knuther's Avatar
    knuther is offline I sure do like pumpkins cotton
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    omaha
    Posts
    1,981
    I guess i am a cheap bastard. I knew i could do that it prob would have if i would have thought about it better. It was a total "while i am here give me all the parts" and see if i can make it happen.


    Needless to say i will not try that again. I dont know about you guys but removing the front springs is scary as hell.. I always have used spring compressors but when it comes down to it i still get chills thinking about what would happen if i "lost my head"

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    NA
    Posts
    3,470
    You would probably die.BUt seriously I just changed the front struts on my bonneville (daily driver )and I made sure I stayed off to the side while I was compressing the springs.Just like anything else take your time and pay attention.However if your still not comfortable bring it to a shop because it just isn't worth the worst case scenerio.

  11. #11
    knuther's Avatar
    knuther is offline I sure do like pumpkins cotton
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    omaha
    Posts
    1,981
    Yea but like i stated before "i am a cheap bastard" a job that might only take a mech 3 hours takes me 10 becuase i dont have all the tools but in the end it was cheaper/i learned something/ and am proud of the fact that i saved 400 bucks.

    Its just one of those things. springs have always scared me, I have no problem with laying under the car while its suspended but a spring... thats something thats hard to anticapate.. Zero warning.

    When i let it down i had a hydo jack under the control arm and had the spring partly compressed, I let the presure out of the jack slowly and walked away. I dont care if it takes off the fender when it flys out. As long as its not my arms or legs. But in both instances the jack came down 6 inchs and then the arm just stoped and i pushed it the rest of the way down and the spring just fell out. Its one of those things where if you cant judge spring pressure very well its hard to know whats going to happen.

  12. #12
    Mariob01GT Guest
    Yeah.. That's pretty much why I didn't install my front springs myself. I didn't feel like missing a few limbs, I heard of horror stories about the front ones. However I did tackle it once on my mom's car and needless to say that will be the last time.

    Regarding the ball joints. Nope you need to get them pressed out. There is a ball joint c-clamp that will allow you to do it while the control arm is still install. I guess you can keep the floor jack under it and have it compressed so the spring doesn't fly out (or some blocks of would), but still the c-clamp is as good as your strenght. I tried them on my mom's car and well original 17yr old ball joints just did not wanna budge, I had to put on them on a press.

    I had my neighbor's shop do the ones for me in my V6. $75 per side...

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    On Da Road
    Posts
    9,359
    I posted something about the six quarts here in the Mechanical section. Look around for it. From what I remember, there was a change in 01 that required a bit more oil. I think the lesson tho was to add five, then use your dipstick to determine how much more was needed.


    ð kev
    |

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    NA
    Posts
    3,470
    Well Kev mine is an 01 and 5 quarts was plenty.However mine is an early 01 maybe that will make a difference,but the dipstick will tell the truth.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Southgate,Mi.
    Posts
    166
    Just a dyno tip. Running on 1/2 quart less than FULL can reduce the amount of air in the oil and the windage is decreased also. I've seen this on many a 4.6. some were S/c some were slightly built N/A. I've seen 3 hp and I've seen 8-11 hp by the decrease in oil. On my 5 litre it was good for 6 hp at the tires

    I'd imagine it would somewhat translate to the street for maybe 2-5 hp.

  16. #16
    Shay's Avatar
    Shay is offline On Lock Down At FnSweet Command Bunker
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Area 52, AZ
    Posts
    19,596
    Just had my oil changed at the Ford Dealer - the paperwork says six quarts were used.
    All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Southgate,Mi.
    Posts
    166
    Originally posted by shaymart
    Just had my oil changed at the Ford Dealer - the paperwork says six quarts were used.
    Of course they did. now when they do 5 oil changes someone gets a free one. I'll find some ford Ref material and see what it says.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Southgate,Mi.
    Posts
    166
    here ya go this is from a ford Specification web site


    Conversion Calculator



    2002 Ford Mustang Cobra V8-281 4.6L DOHC VIN V SFI
    Vehicle Level Specifications Capacity Specifications Oil


    Oil

    Notes Engine Oil 5 qt (US)
    Note: With filter change









    © 2002 ALLDATA LLC. All rights reserved.
    Terms of Use

    Here's the link but I don't think anyone will be able to use it as I can't give out the password. http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PR...71582/42030449

  19. #19
    Shay's Avatar
    Shay is offline On Lock Down At FnSweet Command Bunker
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Area 52, AZ
    Posts
    19,596
    It's that wiley dealer again. Damit!
    All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Southgate,Mi.
    Posts
    166
    I'd call him up and rip his ass. the dealer prolly charges aver $3 a qt. and .1 to put that quart in, in labor

+ Reply to Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts