Posted April
07, '02
 A
cold air induction (CAI) setup is designed to remove the restrictive stock
air box and replace it with a large filter placed into the fenderwell.
By having the filter in the fenderwell, it will draw cool outside air,
as opposed to warm engine compartment air. It also removes the stock accordian
rubber MAF to throttle body tube and replaces it with a smooth-bore tube
for better air flow. The Roush kit is no exception - molded plastic replaces
the stock rubber tube. The large 90 degree elbo stuffs the air filter well
into the fender. With the CAI, you will notice a slight power increase,
slight fuel mileage increase, and a little different engine sound. A very
nice mod.
This article
shows an install of the Roush CAI on a 2001 Roush Stage 3 Mustang. The
fit is very good, but the throttle body connection is made for a stock
throttle body. The Stage 3 comes with a 75mm throttle body, and it is necessary
to coax the fitting. It is possible, but it is a tight fit. As with all
procedures, consult the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations
first. This is just How-I-Did-It.
The Hardware:
I ordered
the Roush CAI kit and recieved
the box several days later (Roush's order line is 1.800.59.ROUSH - option
1 for the parts department). The CAI kit comes with the MAF to throttle
body tube, 90 degree MAF to filter tube, filter, 2 brackets, and hardware.
 Preparation:
Workspace:
A well lit area that allows you to work under the hood.
Tools: 3/8 ratchet; 10mm socket, 10mm open-end wrench, 5/16"
nutdriver, standard screwdriver, knife, rule
Parts: All parts are included with the kit. For the Stage 3 application,
I had to purchase a small piece of hose for one of the connections - ~3/4"
inside diameter X ~2" long
Left-over Parts: Stock air box and
filter, stock MAF to TB tube, 4 MAF bolts, rubber washer, optional bracket
from CAI
Quick
Instructions:
- Remove
airbox bolt, loosen air tube clamps, remove tubes
- Unplug
wire harness, remove MAF->T/B tube
- Remove
stock airbox
- Assemble the MAF and filter assembly
- Install the new MAF->TB tube
- Install the new MAF and filter assembly
- Finishing up
Procedure:
Note: Some full-sized
images have additional information, arrows, etc.
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Getting
Started
Disconnect the battery. This may be unnecessary, but any time I work
with air or fuel, I like to disconnect the battery for the computer
to re-learn the system.
Remove
the airbox bolt from the stock airbox.
Retain bolt for later use. Also loosen the worm-gear
clamps that hold the stock MAF to TB tube in place. Disconnect the
tubes connecting to the tube. The Stage 3 has only two, other applications
may have three.
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Remove
the MAF->TB Tube
Unplug the wire
harness on the MAF. Lift the stock MAF to throttle body (TB) tube
out. You may have to motivate the fitting on the TB a bit, as it may
have bonded to the TB. If you have something plastic to stick in there
to pry, that is best. Metal will scratch the TB. |
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Remove
Stock Airbox
The airbox is lifted up and out of the
opening in the fender. There are tight clearances on the Stage 3, but
most GTs will have plenty of room to slide it right out.
Remove
the MAF from the airbox using a 10mm socket or open end wrench. Be sure
to keep the screen that is with the MAF. Now is a good time to wipe
down the MAF. It is best to avoid the inside unless it is real dirty.
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Assemble
the MAF and Filter Assembly
Now that everything is removed, it is a good time to clean
up the engine compartment. There will be a mess where the old assembly
was.
Attach
the MAF to the 90 degree elbow using the supplied bolts. Assemble the
brackets as shown in the first picture. I personally decided not to
use the large bracket. After some experimentation, I found that the
small top bracket was sufficient to hold the assembly in place. Again,
this was my own preference.
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Install
the New MAF->TB Tube
To prepare the tube, install the supplied small rubber tubing onto the
first connector on the air tube. I cut off about 3/4" of the tube
to shorten the connection up a bit. For the Stage 3, I had to purchase
another small piece of hose. It was 3/4" inside diameter and about
2" long. That will go on the second fitting on the air tube. This
will not be necessary for regular GT's.
Put the
clamp on the tube and set it in place on the throttle body. Slip the
opening over the TB opening and push into place. Do not tighten the
clamp yet, as you may need to move it around a bit while placing the
other piece. Connect the hoses to the new air tube.
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Install
the MAF and Filter Assembly
Slip the air filter into the hole in the fender. You may need to twist
and coax the filter slightly to get it in the hole. Once it is in, rotate
the assembly down until it meets the new air tube and press together.
Make sure the clamp is on the tube before you put the two together.
You may need to lift slightly on the air tube to get them to mate properly.
Once the
MAF and air tube are mated properly, attach the bracket to the fender
using the original bolt. Plug the MAF wire harness back in and tighten
up the clamp on the air tube.
Now tighten
the clamp on the throttle body end. The final step will be the sensor
hole nearest the MAF on the air tube. On the Stage 3, the sensor is
not used, so the supplied plug is used. On GT applications, the sensor
will be re-attached.
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Finishing
Up
Check the clamps on the throttle body and MAF to assure they are tight.
Make sure the 2 tubes are connected (and the one sensor on a GT) and
the wire harness on the MAF is clipped in.
Reconnect
the battery and fire it up!!
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Its Done!
Another very
simple installation of a great Mustang modification. As mentioned before,
the CAI will deliver a small increase in power and change the sound of
the engine slightly. You will cooler and more air going into the engine,
which is always a good thing.
The Roush
CAI kit is a very good looking kit. There are chrome units available from
other manufacturers, but since I have no chrome in my engine compartment,
I think the black looks great. I also painted the Roush stamp on the air
tube to make it stand out a bit more.
That's it!
}}kev
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