Attach Gauge Pod to Trim Piece
Obviously, this was already done for me. If you are using a full replacement, it is already done for you as well. If you have yet to do this, follow the manufacturer's instructions. It is very simple - locate and drill two holes for the wires. Locate and drill holes for rivets, or use two-sided tape to attach pod to trim piece.

The center photo shows the pod installed. Also, note the height difference between the '00 and '01 ('00 near).

Wiring Gauges
The gauges will have a white wire and a black wire. These are for the lights that illuminate the gauges. I connected the two black wires together and connected them to a single black wire to run to the fuse block. Do the same for the white wires. This will be much easier than running a seperate wire for each gauge. The other wires (green, red, and brown) will all run down to the fuel pressure electrical block.

Preparing to Running the Wires
The next step involves removing several other trim pieces to allow you to run the wires to the electrical source, and to have access to the various other wires that you will need.

Peel back and remove rubber strip as seen in top photo. Note that this piece has something inside that allows the rubber to keep it's shape. Use care in removing this, and straighten it once you have it removed. Also note that the top of the rubber will go under the A-pillar trim and under the kick panel.

Next, remove the door sill. The sill is held in place with several friction clips. Simply squeeze your fingers under the sill and pull straight up. Do not pull up at an angle, as there are plastic guides that can break.

Once the sill is removed, remove the kick panel. There is one plastic christmas tree pin that needs to be removed. I slid my finders under the panel, then gently pulled out to get the pin started. Once it was out a little way, I was able to grab it and pull it out the rest of the way. Once the pin is out, the only friction clips that hold it in are located along side closest to the door. Pull out and away - you will have to twist a bit to get it out around the hood lever.

Running the Wires and Vacuum Hose
All of the wires from the gauges can be run behind the dash. I fed them throught the opening just above the dash, then pulled them down through the channel (the channel that is normally behind the rubber strip.

There are two things that need to pass through the firewall into the engine compartment. There is a wire that comes in from the fuel pressure sending unit, and the vacuum hose that goes from the gauges to the intake manifold. I chose to drill a hole in a large rubber grommet that holds a wire harness. The second photo shows the location of the grommet, and the third photo shows the holes drilled and the wire/hose passed through. The forth photo shows a view from inside the car, under the dash.

There are probably a half-dozen possible ways to pass these two items through the firewall. You can also drill a hole and pass them through if you can't find an existing passage. If you drill a hole, be sure to smooth the surface and use a grommet if possible.

Inside detail

Making the Connections - Engine Compartment
Fuel Pressure Sender: There is a shreader valve located on the passenger side fuel rail. Remove the cap, then press the little stem inside to vent any pressure. Use an 11/32" wrench to remove the valve.

The second photo shows the adapter for the sending unit installed. There is a brass adapter with a 45 degree fitting on top that is 1/16" NPTF male to 1/8" NPT female (the F means it's thread sealed as opposed to mechanically sealed). The 1/8" NPT 45* fitting lowers the sending unit enough to clear the hood. On the '99/'00, you may want to use more of a bend in the adapter, as the sending unit barely clears the hood. This car has an '01 Cobra hood that allows for more clearance. This setup did work on my '00 GT, but there was a slight amount of rubbing on the hood insulator. Use teflon tape for the threads, or other accepted sealing compound.

The third photo shows the the sending unit installed and connected to the wire that runs through the firewall. I added a casing around the wire for class :-) I changed the wire after this photo to run under the air intake tube.

Connect the vacuum hose to a vacuum line. I found one on my car that came right out of the intake manifold. I ran a 2" hose from the fitting, inserted a 1/4"X1/4"X1/8" T, plugged in the hose from the gauge in the 1/8" fitting, then replaced the original hose into the 1/4" fitting. In both my '01 and '00, I used the vacuum connection that went into the sensor on the driver's side fuel rail. I am sure that there are other locations, but this is what worked for me.

*Thanks to David for the measurements on the brass adapter for the fuel rail.

Hose location on '00 GT

Making More Connections - Electrical
This was probably the most irritating part of the installation. The gauge lights need to have the white wire connected to a circuit that comes on when the parking lights/headlights come on. The fuel gauge electrical block needs to have the red wire connected to a circuit that is hot when the key is turned on.

For the light wire, I lucked out and found a white wire that was hot when I turned on the lights. I clipped the wire, butted the white wire from the gauges, and made the connection. The black wire from the gauges got an open-end spade connection and was connected to a screw on the fuse block.

The red wire from the fuel gauge electrical block was connected to a green wire in the first harness connector closest to the door. I used an inline splice to make the connection. The black wire was connected to another screw on the fuse block.

To find the wire that I eventually used, I used a multimeter to test various wires. If you don't have a multimeter, you can get a circuit tester from an auto parts store for under $10. The tester will have a light that comes on if the wire is live. Test the wire when the key is off, then again when the key is turned to the "On" position and the "Acc" position. The circuit should be live with the key on, and dead with the key off. I just used process of elimination.

Finally, bundle all of the wires up and tuck the fuel gauge electrical block up behind the wiring harnesses. Snap all of the trim pieces back in place, and the installation is complete!

Finishing up
Once everything is back in place, start the car and check for leaks in the engine compartment. Be sure to check the connection at the pressure sending unit on the fuel rail for any leakage. Feel around the connection, or use a strip of paper to check for fuel. Also, check the vacuum connection to make sure that the connections made are not leaking. Once everything is checked, take a spin around the block and check out that boost!!